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Not Quite Live from the Celebrity Xpedition
Galapagos Blog
On My Way - Quito and Celebrity Xpedition
Contrasts.
I can tell already this will be a journey of contrasts.
Tonight, I’m sitting in the wonderful lobby of the JW Marriott Hotel in
Quito, enjoying the sound of the waterfalls, the soft music and unbelievable
service. Tomorrow, I’ll be on a
ship in the Galapagos going back in time and seeing nature and evolution in all
their glory. Tonight we had dinner
at a historic Opera House while being serenaded, tomorrow we’ll be in shorts
and tee shirts and pretty much that’s the dress code for the next week.
Tonight is city refinement, tomorrow is nothing but nature.
I should probably take a
step back here. How have I gotten
here? What is going on so far?
And what’s ahead?
Welcome to my “Not Quite
Live From Celebrity Xpedition” blog. Because
of logistics, both with internet access and time constraints onboard, it was not
really possible for me to duplicate the live blog I did from Antarctica earlier
this year. So just consider this a
time-delayed version, with entries that will be sent out over the next several
days. With pictures, of course!
Some of the blogs were mostly written on site, while others were
completed after the fact. So forgive
grammatical lapses with tense and such, and know it’s because of the time I
was actually writing that segment.
Galapagos has been on my
“top three” places to see list for a very long time, along with Antarctica
and Africa. Ever since Celebrity
announced their ship the Xpedition in January, 2004, I’ve known she was the
ship I wanted to sail on in these mystical islands.
Just over a week before I arrived here, I was given the opportunity to
come down and experience this ship for myself.
You know I jumped at it, even though the planning was a bit harried.
This is definitely not your typical cruise, so packing is more
challenging. Can we say 30 pound
luggage weight limit? That’s not
per bag, that’s per person. And
they pretty well mean it.
Flights are also a bit of
a challenge from the US, as there aren’t that many airlines that serve Quito
direct from the US, though connections through other cities in Central and South
America are common. Direct flights
come from Houston on Continental or Miami on LAN or American Airlines.
Fortunately, the trip here
was relatively uneventful. I don’t
count airplane “mechanicals” as an issue unless they cause you to miss a
flight. Ours didn’t, though they
allowed everyone catching the flight to Quito off the flight first, as we had a
very tight connection in Miami.
Upon arrival, you’re in
the caring hands of Celebrity. On
the 10, 11 or 13 night packages, your pre-cruise and post-cruise stays in Quito
on the way to the Galapagos are included, as are the transfers, tips, most of
the meals in Quito, the day tour, and on and on.
They really pride themselves in giving a full service experience.
That care and attention is
matched by the associates at the JW Marriott.
Truly wonderful staff. The
hotel itself is beautiful, with a great lobby and restaurant area, along with
excellent pool and spa facilities, and of course what you know and love about
Marriott rooms.
The first full day of the
trip starts with an included breakfast, then a city tour of Quito, a wonderful
lunch a bit outside of town up in the Andes on the edge of a volcanic crater, a
fun visit to the Equator, and a really nice dinner at the old Opera House.
The day is paced to allow for those having altitude adjustment issues (as
Quito is at 9,000 feet). It’s
definitely not as full a day as those which are ahead.
The best part of the day for me was definitely getting to know some of
the other passengers. This ship only
carries about 90 passengers, so there’s an opportunity to really get to know
your fellow adventurers. This was a
good start to that.
I’d actually recommend
an extra day here, either at the start or as part of the 11-night package with
an additional day at the end, so you can go out into the countryside to see the
nature and wildlife in the Cloud Forest or experience the indigenous culture in
some of the large Indian Markets.
The visit to the Old City
was wonderful. Many of the
Cathedrals are encrusted in gold and gold leaf, some of which dates back to
Colonial era. The Colonial buildings
in the historic district take you back and put you in another time.
Beautiful streetscapes are everywhere.
It’s really wonderful for history buffs.
But even if you’re not a historian, the narrow, winding roads are
enjoyable, as is seeing some of the interior courtyards and the people.
By the way, if you’re at
all sun sensitive, do wear sunscreen on this excursion, even if it’s cloudy.
The thin atmosphere, high altitude, and strength of the sun at the
equator combine to make for extreme sun exposure.
Trust me on this one. Right
now, I’m more than a tad pink, and I was wearing sunscreen.
Oh yes, the people.
Have to talk about the people. Beautiful,
friendly, open, warm, hospitable. I’ve
not encountered a sour face or anything but exceptional service.
I definitely want to come back and spend more time with the locals, both
in the city and the indigenous people. It’s
fantastic to see people in traditional dress on the street, mingling perfectly
with those in modern, western clothes. I
also have to admit a country where I’m considered tall at just under 5’ is
nice and an unusual experience.
Then there’s the food.
Take every chance you get to try traditional Equadorian food.
Especially the breads. They’re
light and flavorful and delicious! Then
there’s the potato soup, served with cheese (similar to Monterey jack) and
avocados. The sauces are light, but
very tasty. But do be careful in
Quito about salads, fruits and vegetables, and of course water and ice.
Do use bottled water, eliminate ice, and even brush your teeth with
bottled water. And wash your hands.
Celebrity does take you to quite good restaurants, but as anywhere
different to you, precautions are wise.
We’re off very early
tomorrow morning for the Galapagos. It’s
about a 2 hour flight, then we board zodiacs to reach the ship (there are no
docks in Galapagos). Almost
immediately, we’ll have our first excursions.
Of course, all the excursions (except scuba diving) are included.
It’s the start of the
true adventure, and exploration of the contrasts in nature.
I can’t wait!
Installment 2
Service and Sea Lions and Boobies!
Have to tell you, 5AM
comes mighty early, especially at this altitude.
We had an early morning chartered flight, and our checked luggage needed
to be out in the hallway no later than 5AM for inspections by the Park
Officials, to ensure that we weren’t transporting seeds, plants, etc., which
would be bad for the Galapagos. Check
in for the flight was in the hotel library by 6:30, with seat assignments and
all the flight details taken care of by Celebrity, then off to the airport at
7:15AM.
The procedure at the
airport is very easy, since you’re already checked in, you just have to go
through security. At this point, no
restrictions on liquids in your carry-ons, nor do you have to remove laptops or
shoes.
The plane is a chartered
Embraer 190 from TAME (pronounced “tammy”), with a 2-2 configuration.
It’s just large enough for us, as it’s the type of plane often
referred to as an “executive jet” by the larger airlines.
The weight restriction is so that we’re not overloaded trying to take
off in the high altitude of Quito, which makes it more difficult to get aloft.
Do take it seriously! There
is a new airport being constructed outside Quito, which will allow for longer
runways and more of a safety margin, but until its scheduled opening sometime in
2009, the restrictions are absolutely necessary.
Service on the flight was
quite good, and obviously Celebrity has had a say in how it’s handled.
Even here, the Celebrity touch is evident, from the head rest covers
which have the Xpedition logo on them, to the tray table cloths with the same,
edible and tasty food, and the quality of service.
Very nice.
But of course, those are
just the logistics. We care most
about what happens once we arrive, right?
Excitement was definitely
growing as we sighted the first island on our descent.
It increased when we could spy sea lions on the rocks as we got lower.
Then went to a fever pitch when we landed and I sighted the first land
iguana.
Immigration was smooth,
though there is a bit of a line. Just
be aware that your hand luggage will be inspected again for prohibited items,
such as flowers, plants and seeds. They’re
serious here about not introducing any new species to the islands.
Whisked off to the boat
jetty by bus to catch the zodiac, you catch the first sight of this beautiful
vessel. Then you realize you’re
surrounded by sea lions, even on the benches at the jetty!
Don’t go crazy taking their picture – these are the first of almost
constant sightings. They’re
adorable (and aromatic), but you’ll see so many more, there’s no need to
frantically search your bags for your cameras.
Since almost all reviews of the Galapagos start out with the almost
mandatory pictures of these lounging pinnipeds, I’ll resist putting one in
here!
Once onboard, there’s a
brief orientation (of course you’re served champagne, orange juice or whatever
you wish), then off to your cabin. These
cabins are a bit shorter than a traditional ship cabin, but much wider, which in
many ways makes the cabin more functional and seemingly larger.
Very comfortable, especially with only 30 lbs of luggage.
Two separate closets, both with shelves and hangers.
Two beds, but be aware when they’re configured as a queen, they’re
still made up as 2 separate beds.
A more detailed
orientation, then muster drill, then you’re off to the first excursion on
North Seymour Island. This island is
the best place to see Frigate Birds nesting, which means the males with their
red gullets puffed out. Also Blue
Footed Boobies (and chicks), land iguanas, lava lizards and of course sea lions.
There are almost always at
least two different options for the excursions, a high intensity and a lower
option. On this day, the hike is
over boulders, and is a bit tricky. If
you are unsteady on your feet, or not good over uneven terrain, definitely
don’t do the higher intensity hike. I
highly recommend taking a provided walking stick – it really helps with this
type of terrain.
While it was said during
the briefing that the best chance for viewing the male frigates in full glory
was on the high intensity hike, at least this day the lower intensity route had
all the best viewing. Fortunately,
the high intensity covers the same ground at the end, but don’t hesitate to
take it a bit easier if you’re at all concerned with walking on boulders.
You don’t want to start out taking a fall!
Enough with the logistics!
This is all about the critters. I’m
going to give a bit of the practical details each day, but you only care about
that if you’re a research addict and are already preparing to go.
Mostly, we all want to see the animals!
When you arrive to shore,
you get your first look at blue footed boobies up on the cliffs,
then the sea lions which
surround the landing site.
Excitement mounts as you
climb the stairs, then you start your walk.
Wow! Those feet really are
blue!
What’s most amazing is
how unafraid even the birds are of you. I’m
so used to having to whisper and creep up on animals to have any chance at a
shot. Not so here.
They have no mammalian predators, so don’t equate us with danger in any
way. Keeping your voice down and
moving slowly is still a good idea, but don’t get crazed about moving one inch
a minute.
Walking around the trail,
we constantly had frigate birds around us, in the trees and up in the air.
The females have the white chests, while the males have the red throat.
Suddenly, at the base of a
tree, there’s a flash of white. A
booby chick! At this stage, their
feet aren’t yet blue, but they’re sure cute and fluffy.
Then the guide points
toward the greenery. As your eyes
focus in, you realize there’s a face in there – a land iguana!
It’s easy to picture in your mind that you’re in a prehistoric time,
with the birds flying and crying overhead, and these spiny lizards at your feet.
Continuing to walk along
the path, you get to more and more frigates, with the males posturing for the
females. Along the way, you’re
introduced to the lava lizard, which have different coloring and posturing
habits on each island, and other residents such as these grasshoppers getting a
bit personal and ensuring the survival of the species…
At the end of the hike
(very hot this time of year), you’re back along the beach area and in and
among the sea lions. The pups are
crying for their moms, sunning or playing on the rocks.
At one point, we paused to
watch one pup who was chasing another pup’s mother, crying and obviously
trying to nurse. The mother was
running away as fast as she could, herding her own pup ahead of her.
There was no way to tell if the other pup was abandoned, orphaned, or if
its own mother was just out hunting for an extended time and the pup got
impatient. It was sad and comical at
the same time.
Several times, we had to
move out of the way of the pups, as the naturalists explained that the mothers
identify their pups by scent, and touching us, getting our scent, or the aroma
of our sunscreen or whatever, on them could cause their mothers to reject them.
Of course, the pups are
also quite good at posing for us.
The guides are excellent.
They make sure you have plenty of time for photography, that you actually
do see the camouflaged critters, and they set a comfortable pace.
All along the hike, they give information about the specific island, the
wildlife and their habits. I’ve
found them easy to understand and extremely knowledgeable, as you’d expect.
What a first day!
I can’t wait for tomorrow!
Installment 3
Dawn's Early Light and Island Color
The pace of the ship
varies by day. Some days are more
relaxed. Some are pretty hectic. Day
2 on the ship is one of the busiest, and if you’re ambitious, there are up to
4 excursions today. Starting out
VERY early morning this morning. If
you read my Antarctic blog,
you might think that I’m good at getting up early for sunrise shots.
In truth, it takes a lot to get me out of bed in the morning.
It’s got to be pretty spectacular to drive away the cobwebs and have me
alert enough to start photographing. This
was one of those mornings. I’d
been told that Kicker Rock in the morning was a do not miss, and I now have to
agree!
It’s a 7AM ride to
Kicker Rock, which is a volcanic outcropping.
It once was one large structure, made up of compacted tufa, which has
through erosion split apart Early
morning is the perfect time to see it, as the light is amazing.
There are many fissures at
the base of the rocks.
You can even sail through
it.
We observed sea lions,
blue footed boobies, frigates, and in the water several sharks, including
scalloped hammerheads, black tips and reef sharks and several large turtles.
The water was clear and still, making it all the more exciting to watch
the sea life, but also a perfect way to start the day.
Next up was a visit to
Puerto Baquerizo, one of two towns we will be visiting this week.
If you’re needing some basic supplies (emphasis on basic), a quick trip
to the internet or some souvenirs, this stop is a must.
There’s also a visit to the Interpretation Center (Human History
Museum). At least, that’s what I
was told. I hate to admit that,
after all the rushing to get ready on short notice for this trip, along with the
hot weather and early mornings, I decided that a couple hours of sleep would be
a very good thing. Oops!
But I was up for lunch,
which today we decided to do in the dining room.
You have two options for lunch, often with very similar offerings.
The dining room is buffet style for lunch, and casual, or there’s the
Beagle Grill on the aft deck. If
it’s hot without wind, the dining room is a welcome respite, but have to say
after the first day, you would have found me on the back deck for lunch every
day, as it’s just too beautiful to be inside.
The ship is usually traveling during the lunch break, so the scenery is
ever changing. I think also because
it was hot, I found myself eating pretty light for lunch, with breakfast and
dinner being the heavier meals.
Right after lunch, it’s
up to the pool deck (yes, there’s a large hot tub on this ship!) to get
outfitted with snorkel gear. In
colder months, the wet suits are a necessity, as the water here can get
extremely chilly. In March, however,
the water temps are at their highest, and many found that a wet suit wasn’t
needed. However, take the time to
get a proper fit on your mask, as you’ll find yourself smiling and laughing a
lot underwater as the sea lions amuse you, and a leaking mask makes for a lot
less fun.
While most people found
the need for an afternoon nap, there is another offering which I made a point of
going to – the afternoon lecture series. While
nap time is important to me, these lectures were absolutely fabulous in helping
gain even more understanding of these islands, their geology, ecology,
conservation and human impacts. Today
was geology, which is the perfect start to the series to give a background on
their formation and continuing growth.
The afternoon brought us
to Espanola Island, with two options for excursions – a hike to Point Suarez
(which, I understand, during albatross season from May-November, is THE place to
watch them at the Albatross “Airport”), or a lower, medium intensity zodiac
ride and hike. If the albatross were
in residence, I’d have done the cliff hike with no hesitation, but since they
were all out to sea still in March, off I went on the medium activity.
The evening briefing is
very good to explain about the next day’s activities.
Many times, just from the description in the daily program, you can
decide what you want to do. However,
sometimes you need more information, or there’s a tidbit about what you’ll
see or the terrain which makes the difference.
The slide show illustrates the briefing, and also helps in making your
decision. Still unsure after the
briefing? Ask one of the
naturalists. But do be aware,
because they’re used to the terrain and wonderfully fit and sure-footed, they
sometimes make the high intensity sound easier than it is.
You’ll get a feel for it after the first couple days, but do know the
lower intensity often has more critter viewing.
The higher intensity isn’t always more difficult – it’s sometimes
just longer.
Espanola is a riot of
color. Not the island – the
residents. From the blue footed
boobies (they’re everywhere!) to the lava lizards (which are the most brightly
colored here of all the islands;
on each island these lava
lizards not only have a different color specific to that island, they also have
a different “dance” of up and down to show agitation and other
communication), to the red and yellow marine iguanas, it seemed that the
critters were trying to stand out from their surroundings, rather than blend in.
This park plaque greets
you as you exit off the zodiac. It
seemed that the Nazca Boobies were always on it, either singly or in pairs.
The little Blue Footed
chicks are just too adorable for words.
Today it sunk in deeper in
your consciousness and with amazement you understand how unafraid these birds
all are. They simply don’t fear
you. Not the chicks, not the adults.
This realization hits deep at your core.
At first, it’s simply the astonishment and joy at being able to get
close up for pictures, without causing apparent stress. But
then you begin to understand that nature here is different without mammalian
predators. You realize that it’s
not size or our noises which scare off birds and animals.
It’s simply us. But here in
the Galapagos, we aren’t the enemy. We
aren’t to be feared (at least not in a one-on-one manner – but more on that
later). Instead of being the
pinnacle of the food chain, we’re instead completely removed from it, and
therefore from the necessity of flight. You
begin to gain an inkling of understanding of how raw nature is here, and how
we’re truly not a part of this isolated group of islands.
That if we were to be a part, we would begin to inextricably change what
makes these islands so amazing. It’s
the beginning of a much greater realization which takes hold of your mind and
heart over your journey.
Sorry about the
philosophizing. This is just a place
which brings it out. Be prepared for
quite a bit more over the week.
But back to the critters.
I know that’s why you’re here!
Yes, all those pictures of
the boobies’ blue feet are real. Of
course I have to do a requisite close-up so you can see just how blue.
This is not photoshop magic.
But did you know their
throats are also blue? Ask me how I
know. Come on, ask!
This single bird was so
patient he let me take over 100 pictures of him.
And quite a character, too!
Were we talking colors?
I forgot to mention the Sally Lightfoot crab.
They’re incredibly brilliant and everywhere!
The lava lizards are
probably the most skitterish of the critters, with the exception of the Darwin
Finches and the feral cats (more on them later).
But even they let you get up close and personal.
Oh wait, those aren’t
lava lizards, are they? They’re
too large. And too bright.
These are the very brightly-colored marine iguanas just out sunning
themselves on the rocks. Caution, R
rated picture ahead.
Walking along the paths,
you never know what you’ll come across. This
was a touching moment between mother and pup.
You literally have to walk
around some of the animals, as of course, they don’t care they’re in the
path you’re supposed to follow.
At times, because this is
true nature, not Disney or even Sea World, you also come across the casualties.
Whether it be a pup whose mother didn’t make it back from hunting, or a
bird who has become prey to a larger bird, or an iguana carcass, there are signs
everywhere of the circle of life. Coming
up on this bird, at first I thought it was injured.
But no, it just turns out
it was resting, and totally undisturbed by my passing.
I have to admit, I did give a bit of a sigh of relief.
Sometimes, no matter that your head says is just nature working, your
heart hurts a bit.
As we got back to the
jetty to board the zodiacs back to the ship, we were seen off by a Galapagos
Hawk perched atop the light beacon.
Back to the ship, shower,
change, briefing, dinner and after a nightcap up on the “WHIG SIG” upper
deck (more about that and the friendships which form on such a journey and
intimate ship), it’s time for BED!
Installment 4
Sea Lion Kisses
Tuesday.
Floreana Island. This is a
day I’ve been looking forward to – our first opportunity to snorkel!
I’d tried to arrange to be able to dive on these snorkel sites (for
better photographing of the sea lions underwater), but that wasn’t possible.
That’s okay – the sea lions LOVE snorkelers!
It’s a very busy day
today, with the potential for up to 4 excursions, 3 of which allow for
snorkeling.
The early morning crew
could head to Cormorant Point, hiking into a brackish pond which is fabulous for
bird-watching. Flamingos, stilts,
pintail ducks and more were seen here. You
could snorkel here as well, but not if you wanted to also do the high intensity
snorkel, which I’d been told by past passengers was THE place to snorkel and
not miss. They were right!
About mid-morning, we
loaded our snorkel gear into the zodiacs, and headed out to Champion Island to
find the sea lions. Actually, they
found us, as they headed into the water as soon as they sighted our boats.
They know what the boats meant: PLAY
TIME WITH HUMANS! As we got to the
drop-off point where we’d slide off the boats into the water, several sea
lions were already circling the boats, barking at us, telling us to hurry up and
get in with them.
It’s a wondrous moment
to realize these wild animals look forward to us and we make them happy and
excited. Not often in nature do you
get this type of interaction. I’d
experienced it before in the Sea of Cortez, and it ranked among my most
memorable and happiest animal interactions.
These sea lions were just as enthusiastic and happy to see us, and we
quickly donned our gear and got into the water.
The excursion is billed as
a “high intensity snorkel”, but truly, if you’re comfortable in water
above your head and snorkeling in potentially rough conditions (in other words,
don’t get panicked if water comes into your snorkel), you should be fine here.
I’m sure at times there are some stronger currents than we experienced,
but it was a good snorkel where most of the exertion was in playing with the sea
lions.
From the moment we dropped
in, they surrounded us, darting in and out, zooming around us, begging us to
play with them.
Several of the teens and
naturalists were good at free diving down with them, and the sea lions loved it!
Many times, it seemed as
if they couldn’t figure out why people were heading the other way (though they
were likely watching other sea lions)
There were often multiple
lions entertaining us – or were we entertaining them?
But it wasn’t all play
– they were also fishing while they were out with us.
Interestingly, while the
sea lions seemed comfortable with most cameras, they weren’t liking my dome
port very much. I think this was new
to them, as in the Sea of Cortez, they tend to use it as almost a mirror, coming
right up and staying nose to dome with it. With
my dome, they’d come zooming up to me, but then veer off more quickly than
I’m used to.
I think they just don’t
see this type of lens and port here with the snorkelers as sea lions elsewhere
that they get more divers with the larger camera rigs.
By the way, it’s the dome port and fisheye lens that I used which
account for the curves you sometimes see at the edges of the frame – such as
at the top with the water.
Of course, there are the
classic play poses that all sea lions tend to do.
And get a sense of their
immense power while swimming.
The bubbles you see in
poses like this aren’t from their exhaling, but instead from them barking
underwater to communicate.
It wasn’t all sea lions,
either. A reef shark was sighted, as
were several types of tropical fish.
but the sea lions were
absolutely the stars of the show.
It was with regret that we
left to head back to the ship for lunch. The
good news, however, is that immediately after lunch, there was another high
intensity snorkel on the agenda!
During lunch, a huge
school of dolphins surrounded the ship, one of the largest I’ve ever seen,
with well over 100 individuals. Our
Captain handled the ship as nimbly as a zodiac, turning and playing with them,
following them, staying with them as long as possible.
Yet another good reason to eat lunch out at the Beagle Grill!
I just wish I’d had my camera, but alas it was in my cabin still in its
underwater casing awaiting the afternoon snorkel excursion.
Mystery Bay was next up,
and we were dropped a bit off the bay and swam in.
I have to admit, I was a bit puzzled by this, as we didn’t really spot
much on the swim in, and the swim was rather high intensity as we were booking
along at a good pace over a distance. Since
the zodiacs were able to get into the bay to pick us up, it wasn’t for that,
so I have to presume it was that we were looking for other critters (such as
rays, sharks or turtles) which weren’t in evidence this day.
We did pass one
outcropping with Galapagos Penguins, but unfortunately we didn’t veer close to
them. One of my few disappointments
of the week. I have a feeling our
guide didn’t see them.
The water was very dark
and murky today, turning everything a bit of a green color underwater, with a
lot of sand kicked up. But that
didn’t keep a small family of sea lions from coming out to play with us!
This family seemed much
more interested in being photographed.
– doesn’t that second
shot seem to be asking if I wanted to photograph him, too? This sea lion
actually bumped my port he came so close.
Even though there
weren’t as many sea lions here, the interactions between sea lions and
snorkelers were just as stunning, with them seeking us out to play.
The last excursion option
of the day was a wet landing at “Baroness Lookout”, a site which figures
prominently in the human history, gossip, mystery and scandals which are a part
of these islands. Yes, these islands
do have a fascinating human history as well, with many colorful characters, both
men and women, attracted to these intriguing islands.
After dinner, many of us
gathered on the “WHIG SIG” top deck to get a star gazing lesson from the
second officer. Unfortunately, the
weather wasn’t cooperating by the time she arrived, though we’d already
tentatively identified many of the southern constellations.
Of course, some of the identifications might not have been accurate, but
since we had arranged for “beverage service” up there, we weren’t too
concerned by the end. This is such a
wonderful way to end the day – lying on the loungers, watching the stars and
talking with friends, with after dinner drinks being served to us.
We were loving the luxury!
What is WHIG SIG? Several of us the very first day during the bus ride decided that “What Happens in Galapagos Stays in Galapagos” and I promptly named us the WHIG SIGs. So of course, the deck where we would hang out at night (sometimes having to evict the teens who thought it was their territory) became the WHIG SIG deck. All were welcome, as long as they embraced that philosophy and shared their laughter and fun with us.
That night we also got to
enjoy the antics of the water creatures once we arrived at our anchorage, as the
ship turned on the anchoring lights, attracting the small fish who came to feed,
and then the pelicans and sea lions who fed on the fish.
You could see the hierarchy of predators in action – the plankton are
attracted by the lights, and are fed on by the small fish who, in turn, are
eaten by the larger predators. This
is the Galapagos – this is nature.
Installment 5
Sea Turtle Saviors and Fulfilled Penguin Dreams
Throughout this journey,
there are events which either subtly or more strongly assault your intellect.
You know coming here that this is all about nature.
But most of us are insulated from the realities of nature – the closest
we come is a National Geographic special, or perhaps the zoo or what we
encounter on hikes near our home. We rarely are brought face-to-face with life
and death struggles, and how much animals will sacrifice to maintain the
species. In Galapagos, it’s
everywhere, and in unexpected ways. Each
experience changes you, whether you cheer the triumph, feel for the struggle
between endemic and foreign species, or feel your heart pain when the battle is
lost.
Today is a triumphant day.
The morning activities
were both centered around Bachas Beach, with the option to also head inland on a
flamingo search at the brackish ponds. This
beach is a turtle nesting site, which ended up to be the focus of the excursion,
as the naturalists found a female who was stuck in her struggle to return to the
water after her night of laying eggs. While
it is prohibited to interfere with animals in the Galapagos, as nature needs to
play out in her own way, the naturalists here felt it wasn’t interfering to
bring this female out of where she was stuck, so she could then make her own way
back to the ocean.
They combined their
strength to gently lift and turn her, bringing her to an area where she could,
if she wasn’t already too weak, drag herself to the sea.
To everyone’s relief and excitement, she immediately started her
journey back to the sea. It was a
moment of exultation and celebration. She
was weak, but she now had a chance!
The afternoon choices were
very different, though they all ended with beach/snorkeling time.
Those who were fit and eager climbed “to the top” at Bartolome
Island, up 358 wooden steps to the top of the island for an incredible view.
Not so eager to do the climb? There
was a fantastic zodiac option where we circled the island, observing the
Galapagos Penguins on the shore, mantas jumping in the distance, and searched
for sharks in the shallows. It was
an absolutely beautiful boat ride, full of sightings.
I think we counted almost all the penguins known to be in the area!
What a treat!
After the first half of
our excursions, everyone met at the beach to sun, play in the water… or if you
were a snorkeler, to go over to Pinnacle Rock to find the penguins.
We weren’t disappointed! Because
it was late afternoon, the penguins were in and out of the water, hunting and
diving, and they were zooming past those who made the swim over to see them.
The personal thrill for me
is beyond words. Ever since seeing
the penguins in the water from the beach during my Antarctic cruise, I’ve been
dreaming of being in the water with them. I feared I’d have to learn how to
dry suit dive and brave the Antarctic waters in order to accomplish that, but
here was my dream coming true. When
I learned there was a chance to snorkel with them I was excited, but the
actuality far exceeded my hopes. Not
only was I able to see them, they came zooming by me VERY close, and repeatedly.
The light was low, the water was murky, but I got some shots which, while
technically leaving much to be desired, will continue to make me smile for years
to come.
This was Pinnacle Rock
itself, with several penguins resting atop it.
Sorry for the odd coloring – I had a red filter on my lens to enhance
the underwater colors, and it was difficult to get the color correction right
for the above-water shots – and it didn’t help at all that we were facing
into the setting sun.
Yes, there are several
penguins on the rocks. You can make
out the one on the left fairly easily, but there were three more in the shadows
as well.
Not only were the penguins
zooming by, but there was a pelican hunting at the surface as well.
Look closely here – you can see the pelican’s beak and feet along
with a penguin just coming into the frame in the lower right corner.
Both were less than 12” away from my lens.
Because the conditions
were so extreme (very dark underwater because of the murk and low light, very
bright above with the setting sun), a split shot was not able to be perfectly
(or even close to acceptably) exposed. But
as bad as these shots are technically, look at what you can see topside and
underwater (look closely – there be penguins there!)
A penguin just zooming by
– gotta love continuous shooting!
To get a sense of the
speed of these penguins, my camera is capable of shooting 3 frames per second.
So that series above took less than two seconds for him to completely
swim by with me panning as he swam. They’re
quick little critters!
For the photographers
reading this, yes, I could have used strobes in these shots.
But I opted not to, in order to be able to take the faster, continuous
images, and also because of all the particulate in the water.
Had I been on scuba rather than snorkel, I might have used dual strobes
to capture the color better. But at
these depths, in these conditions with the fast-moving subjects, I decided this
was the better option for me.
Why were the penguins and
pelicans here? For the fish of
course!
Yup, more penguins in the
bottom two shots there.
On the way back to the
beach, a couple sharks were also sighted – just small white tips, but exciting
none-the-less.
What a day!
But it wasn’t over. Tonight,
we celebrate a somewhat-traditional Crossing the Line ceremony (though toned
down a bit from the more ribald antics common on naval ships).
During this cruise, we actually cross the line 4 times, but this
particular crossing was timed so we could enjoy and celebrate it after dinner.
So much fun! I’ve gone over
the equator many times, but never before onboard ship, and was looking forward
to the ceremony – it didn’t disappoint!
King Neptune, of course, was in evidence, along with his queen, and the
antics ensued. At the end, we all
got our certificate so we can now say we’ve been inducted into the Society by
King Neptune.
This was one of the few
nights when most passengers stayed up after dinner.
Usually, it got almost immediately quiet after dinner, with a few of the
teens staying up, and a few adults heading for a nightcap.
Definitely not a ship for night owls, as even I was usually in bed long
before 11PM. But it was nice almost
every evening to have one after dinner drink either in the lounge or up on the
top deck. While the upper deck
“Blue Finch Bar” never opened at night, even though it was mentioned in the
daily program, the bartenders from the main lounge were more than happy to bring
up the drinks to us. The bar was a
bit understaffed this cruise, but they made up for it with enthusiasm.
Overall onboard there were
several new crew, as some of the more experienced crew were rotating on and off,
and since they’re all local, there were occasionally a few glitches with
service, but never once could you fault their attitude or desire to take care of
you.
Installment 6
The Magic of the Galapagos
Every trip that I do which
has an exploratory nature to it, whether it be to Europe, Antarctica, the South
Pacific, or even to a new destination in the Caribbean, has a “magical”
moment to it. A time which will live
in memory without difficulty. Which
changes me in subtle or dramatic ways. Thus
far in the Galapagos, while it has been absolutely fabulous, I hadn’t yet had
that singular moment. But it was
coming.
This morning, we visited
Isabela, searching for our first glimpse of the giant tortoises, land iguanas
and other inhabitants.
I haven’t focused too
much on the flora of these islands, but lest you think they’re all arid and
with low shrubs, this is an example of the lovely and delicate flowers we saw
this morning.
This island also boasted
several Darwin Finches (I’ll admit, while the naturalist explained the
differences, much having to do with the beaks, on quick examination I couldn’t
identify which was which species) and even some moths and butterflies.
At first, most of the residents we encountered were the land iguanas, though they were being quite photogenic in the morning light.
Finally, we hear rustling
in the brush, which signals there’s a tortoise nearby.
Watching carefully, we can see the leaves moving… and finally…
there’s a glimpse! 
It’s thrilling to finally sight the iconic symbol of the Galapagos about which we’ve heard so much. While it takes careful eyes, we now understand a bit how well adapted they are to their environment. Another gives us a better look as he rests in the cool shade.
Much of the talk today
centers around the conservation efforts in the islands.
How the endemic species, such as the tortoises, are threatened by the
animals which man has brought, such as cats which are now feral on several
islands, including this one. Cats in
particular are a huge threat to the tortoises’ eggs, but also to other species
as well. And because cats are so
cunning, they’re extremely difficult to eradicate.
The settlements now have strict controls on cats and dogs to try to
prevent further man-made effects, but the feral cats are a particular challenge.
The Darwin Society scientists are working on ways to specifically target
the cats with chemical sterilization for example, but so far they’ve only had
partial success.
As a cat lover, I hate
hearing about the killing of cats, but when we sighted a feral cat in the brush
not far from the tortoises, I understood instantly at a basic level.
They don’t belong here. They,
like other land mammals, including man, change the environment dramatically and
without controls will wipe out what makes these islands so special.
Feral cats are natural, and they are wild in many parts of the world.
But they shouldn’t be so here. But
if you doubt how difficult it will be to find and control them, see how well
they have adapted and blend in… Where’s Wald…er, Kitty?
When we returned to the beach area, several opted to go swimming. Thought I’d add in here a picture of the landing area. You can see one of the zodiacs coming in for a pick-up. This landing is described as one of the more difficult, because of the angle of the beach. It is a bit tricky getting off the front of the zodiac and walking up in the soft sand, but the guides and boat assistants do help.
I took this opportunity to
get some more pictures of the Sally Lightfoot crabs on the rocks. 
Back to the ship for an
absolutely wonderful Ecuadorian lunch and a conservation lecture, then it was
off to our next destination.
In the afternoon, we went
to Fernandina, home to marine iguanas, flightless cormorants, sea lions and…
magic.
I’d been looking forward
to getting some really close-up pictures of marine iguanas just out of the
water, and this was my chance!
After a dry landing, we
walked through some marshy areas, then emerged on lava flows.
If you do some readings from Darwin’s journals before you arrive, or
even watch “Master and Commander” to get a sense of his sense of discovery
in these islands, one of the key factors in what he observed on these islands
which shaped his future writings were the lava flows.
He wrote that it appeared the lava appeared as if it was new and had just
cooled in flows like rivers. While
these islands are still growing and there are active volcanoes, those areas
weren’t what he observed, nor did he observe any eruptions.
But the sense that these islands hadn’t been “created” whole and
complete is what began to shake up his awareness and later led to his writing
“On the Origin of Species.” Lava.
Not tortoises, though he observed several different species, and at least
not initially not even birds, which were prominent in his later writings.
It was lava flows which started the process.
On Fernandina Island, you
see flows which invoke that sense of time frozen.
The flows are actually in rivers, with ridges.
They’ve just begun to weather, to erode, but barely.
Green life here only slightly has a foothold, and it’s struggling.
Everything is black and lava and wild.
Fernandina is one of the two “youngest” islands in the grouping,
along with Isabela, and it really shows.
Okay, back to the critters. First up, the marine iguanas! There were areas where they were literally all over one another, warming up from their feeding forays in the ocean. Oddly enough, many of them are in the shadows. Why odd? Because intellectually, you expect to see them in the sun warming up. However, it’s so hot on the lava, they retreat to the shade so as not to get overly fried.
They’re all over the
place, in pairs, singly and groups. 
The surf and ship are
always in the background, not too far away. 
Some even have little
friends keeping them company. 
And the shot I’d been hoping for – I was even able to catch one of them “sneezing” out the salt accumulated in its body on a feeding foray!
Next we moved out over the
lava and sand toward the flightless cormorants.
Even here, access is
strictly controlled, as there is a marked path on the sand from which you
aren’t permitted to deviate. 
Keeping you company along
the way are families of sea lions frolicking in the water. 
As with everywhere in the
Galapagos, reminders abound about the cycle of life.
Here is the skeleton of an iguana and the remnants of a sea lion with a
lava lizard investigating. 
At first, you feel a bit
macabre and ghoulish investigating these, but it’s all part of the Galapagos
experience, and an important one at that. Even
as your heart pains at the sight, your understanding grows.
After a few minutes’
walk, you get close to the Flightless Cormorants.
These birds have lost their ability to fly.
Their wings have atrophied and gotten too small to support their weight
in the air, but their hind legs and webbed feet have grown, and their lungs have
changed to allow them longer periods underwater to fish.
By the way, when I say “get close to” that was a relative term on
this day. I was using a super
telephoto lens (400mm) and was at the limit of it to catch these photos. 
As you can see, they live
together with the marine iguanas without apparent conflict.
As I mentioned, life on this island is tough and harsh. Not sure if this was a piece of driftwood which washed up on the beach, or a tree which tried unsuccessfully to grow, but the sea lion didn’t care – it was nap time, and he had found a bit of shade.
Not
even a group of us walking by would disturb it. 
As you move inland a bit,
there are trees trying to take hold. In
one, we were fortunate enough to glimpse a Galapagos Hawk.
It was shortly after this
that I achieved my epiphany. Because
I was getting a bit too hot (I have to be very careful in the sun), I was given
special permission to stay behind for a bit, sitting on the lava in the shade
behind some bushes. Our group was
going to be passing back past this point in a short time, and there wasn’t
another group I could join to head back to shade.
While this was a breach of Galapagos protocol, my guide had gotten to
know me, knew that I respected the islands and their inhabitants, wouldn’t
move from this spot… and most importantly that I needed to stop and didn’t
want to keep the rest of the group from moving on.
As they left, the silence
of the island settled over me. A
sense of peace descended. I watched
hawks soaring on the afternoon current, while another cried in a nearby tree.
A petrel working its way up on the currents around me.
Finches calling all around me. Sitting
on a raw lava flow. Crackles in the
brush behind me from some unknown creature settling in as the sun lowered.
Stillness and connection with the rawness and inclusiveness of nature.
Even the one fly buzzing me didn’t detract.
Much. I was connected.
I was part of the Galapagos. It was Magic.
I wrote the above
paragraph as soon as I returned to the ship so I could capture the images and
emotions while it was fresh. When I
experienced it, I was so profoundly happy that I cried a bit, but was smiling at
the same time. I’m crying again
now as I recall it. I’m not the
only person to be so affected by these islands.
Many have talked and written about how they’ve been changed.
I know I have.
I have to say it’s a
shame that more people can’t experience this type of moment in the Galapagos.
While the rules are in place to protect the islands and their
inhabitants, it does serve to limit a bit the connection.
Perhaps it is because I’m an introspective, quiet person by nature, but
I find the quiet contemplation to be when I find my special moments.
They happen on a dive not when there’s activity all around, or when
I’m zooming from one place to another, but when I settle in to watch a fish
being cleaned or an invertebrate moving across the ocean floor or watch a school
of fish just swimming by. Similarly
here, the best moments were those when there was more time to observe, rather
than just to see. If you understand
the difference between observation and looking, you’ll understand what I mean.
When the group returned a
few minutes later, I walked and talked quietly with our guide on our way back to
the zodiac. He is a long term
resident of these islands and veteran of these tours.
He, too, was sorry that more couldn’t have this type of experience.
However, he said few would have been comfortable alone in that situation,
and that I can understand. We both
agreed that I’d had a very special moment, one that few get to experience in
life anywhere.
However, even without that
experience, these islands would have profoundly affected me.
We had many times where we got to stop and watch for several minutes a
particular interaction of wildlife. Have
moments of quiet conversation with the guide.
See touching moments. The
ship and itinerary serve to foster that in amazing ways.
And the guides are wonderful in helping you to understand it all.
As I said.
Magic. Everyone will connect
to something different on this cruise, at a different time or from a different
experience. Today was mine.
Tonight we had an outdoor
barbecue, held on the aft and top decks. Fun
and YUMMY! Followed by the Captain
turning on the anchor lights when we dropped anchor for the evening.
Once again, this attracted the small fish, followed by pelicans and sea
lions to feed on them, and finally some large sharks started cruising the area.
Seeing the food chain in action is an amazing sight, and a perfect end to
this remarkable day.
Installment 7
Conservation and Rest
Friday was another quiet
day for me, and hence a shorter review as well.
The heat from Thursday wore me out a bit, plus whatever bug was working
on me. Most people wouldn’t have
any problem at all with the heat, but I’m particularly sensitive.
So it was mostly a day of rest.
The highlight of the
morning was going to some collapsed lava tubes.
These are the tubes where the outer edges of a lava flow cooled more
quickly than the interior, and through which lava continued to flow.
When the lava stopped flowing farther up the tube, the empty tube
remained, and in this location, the wave action has collapsed some of them,
giving viewers glimpses into the inside.
Many of these are flooded,
and are perfect habitats in which turtles and other sea life, including sharks,
can swim, and playgrounds for the Galapagos Fur Seals.
Everyone really seemed to
love watching these!
Afternoon brought a hike
for birds ranging from Darwin Finches to flamingos, followed by a swim and
snorkel. Nice way to end the day!
I’ve been a bit
negligent in talking about the afternoon lectures and other activities.
The lectures have been fabulous. As
I mentioned, they started with the geologic formations of the islands, then
progressed through human history (including some of the scandals of the
Galapagos), history of conservation (explaining the balance of conservation and
nature), and even an IMAX presentation on the Galapagos.
In concert with the information you receive during the excursions from
the guides, these talks really serve to enhance your knowledge of these islands.
The lectures weren’t widely attended, as it is the perfect time for an
afternoon nap, but were worth sacrificing a nap.
I especially enjoyed the
conservation lecture. Jason, our
cruise director and lead naturalist, helped to explain the difficulties faced in
conserving the indigenous and endemic species and eradicating the species which
have been introduced by man. This
includes efforts to try to create a poison which would only work for certain
species (like rats, for example), and using a “judas goat” to attract all
the male goats on an island to one point from which they could be hunted.
It’s not easy to listen to efforts to kill animals like this, but by
the time this lecture was given, you’ve seen the impacts, whether from a feral
cat, or heard how goats were removing essential vegetation, so you’ve begun to
understand the necessity. Amazing
work being done here by the Darwin Society, and I’m really looking forward to
the Darwin Station tomorrow.
In addition, an
opportunity is given to donate to the Darwin Society, up to $250/person, and in
return, Celebrity will give you a future cruise credit equal to that amount
which can be used on a future booking. I
do think that a high percentage of those of us on this sailing contributed, and
I highly recommend it. After you see all that’s being done, it’s a way to
give back to these islands.
Tonight was also movie
night – “Winged Migration” – examining the migration of many species of
birds. While with the exception of
the Waved Albatross, it’s not about the Galapagos, it’s a perfect complement
to the overall tone of the week.
Installment 8
Birth, Death and Survival in the Galapagos
Saturday.
Our last full day in the Galapagos. And
Santa Cruz Island, where Puerto Ayora is the main settlement in the Galapagos.
A chance to go up to the Highlands to try to see tortoises, and a visit
to the Darwin Station. Also the
opportunity to do a bit of shopping or internet in town over lunch if you
desire.
Beware, however, of one
thing. While we had fairly calm seas
all week, with only a couple rough nights, the night before we landed in Puerto
Ayora was difficult because of significant rolling action of the ship.
Not because of the seas while we were underway, but once we anchored
outside the harbor. From what I
could gather from the crew, this is fairly common, as there are two different
currents which cross in the anchoring zone, and as the tides change, the ship
gets buffeted pretty heavily. I
spent the night bracing myself in bed, and I know I wasn’t the only one who
had to work not to get tossed out.
I opted to go to Darwin
Station early in the morning. I had
heard that “Lonely George” was often more active in the morning, and I
wanted to see the celebrity tortoise, reportedly the last of his species.
Several of us cried at
this sight. Yes, it was just a
chick. But to watch its struggle,
trying so hard to find a way to survive, and know that there was nothing we
could or should do, touched deeply. I
declined to take a picture, as I felt that was too personal and too intrusive…
and a bit too macabre. But the image
of that tiny baby, without feathers or fluff, completely helpless, struggling
along the path, will be with me forever, and along with all the triumphant
moments and beauty, will be part of my Galapagos memory.
It’s part of the reason I say the Galapagos affected me not just emotionally, but also intellectually. You get hit