Buenos Aires es Magnificio!

If you find me with a new address, don't be surprised. Buenos Aires
has absolutely captured my heart! From the warmth of the Portenos
(locals in Buenos Aires), to the quality (and price!) of the food,
this city has surpassed French Polynesia as perhaps my favorite place on earth.

To catch you up on the past two days, after arrival at the Esplendor
Palermo hotel in Palermo Soho, I will admit I succumbed to the local
habit of a siesta before going out for an absolutely incredible meal
at Sucre. Buenos Aires has a long history of Italian style and
preferences. As such, I searched out one of the fine Italian
restaurants for our first night here, and found Sucre. It didn't
disappoint in any way. From the quality of the service and food, to
the price, it's simply one of the finest Italian meals (in the true
Italian style, not Olive Garden quality) I've experienced. While
I've had more sublime meals in Italy itself, the price here, at about
$35/person, including wine, makes this a meal worth remembering and
repeating.

I arrived at about 8:30PM, unfashionably early by Buenos Aires standards,
but absolutely necessary in order to make a 10:30PM Tango show. We
were almost the first there, with the only other patrons also
Americanos. However, by 9:00PM, the restaurant was filling up. They
definitely accommodated Americans nicely, with an English menu, but
by no means was our experience an Anglicized one. As with most of
Buenos Aires, a few words of Spanish goes a long way toward improving
the experience.

Next up was Tango Carlos Gardel. Carlos Gardel is one of the
historical figures in Argentine Tango, as one of the premiere singers
in the 40s, 50s and 60s. His namesake theatre is beautiful. You can
have dinner there as well, and by all reports it's one of the best
combination dinners and shows, but I opted instead to book just the
show, arriving at 10:30PM. While you're seated at the back of the
theatre, the view is fabulous and comfortable, and you're served both
water and the wine (or other beverage) of your choice. The show is
extremely memorable, and went a long way toward touching my heart and
soul and connecting me firmly with this extraordinary city and its
people. I was afraid a Tango show would be too touristic and
kitschy, but as promised by several local experts, this show was more
authentic than several others (which are often described as
"Hollywood style") and gave me insight into the Argentine rhythm.

Consisting of 5 sets of dancers, 2 primary dancers, 2 singers and an
orchestra, this 90 minute show never lagged and was well paced
showing the progression of Tango from its origins early in the 20th
Century. I highly recommend it! Again, I have to compliment the
assistance of Wow! Argentina, as our reserved seats were smack dab in
the center.

Back to the hotel and caught the end of the Boca y River Football
match, one of the chief rivalries in Argentina soccer, with the
hotel staff. Again, the joys of a Boutique hotel experience.

After sleeping in, was off to San Telmo for the traditional Sunday
afternoon Antiques Market and street fair. Tango bands, tango street
dancers and lots and lots of stalls offering everything from
handicrafts to moderate value antiques were found. Mostly, it was
about experiencing what Portenos do on a Sunday afternoon rather than
purchasing.

On the way I passed the Recoletto crafts fair. Next time, if I'm
here on a Saturday or Sunday, I'll head back there. Looked interesting!

Back to Palermo for a lunch experience of sushi, much assisted by a
friendly couple at the table next door who filled in my gaps in
knowledge of Spanish food terms and ordering correctly. This is
exactly the joy of experiencing a city as a traveler, rather than a
tourist. Again, the restaurant staff spoke not a word of English,
but communication was easily achieved and a lovely, quality, light
lunch at an affordable price was obtained.

Tonight was the classic Argentine experience of a Parilla (pronounced
Parisha as the Argentines admittedly speak Spanish their own way and
lla is not "ya", but "sha"), or grill house at La Cabrera, one of the
highest rated steak houses in the city. Bring your appetite, as the
beef is amazing, and the side dishes more than ample. I started with
an appetizer of Proveleta (fried provolone with herbs - sounds odd
but is amazing), a bottle of local Malbec (red) wine and sparkling
water. The waiter provided recommendations easily, but in
Spanish. Followed up by an enormous portion of Bife de Chorizo
(sirloin strip) and finished with Espresso and a glass of Proseco
(Italian sparkling wine), the meal was perfect and just over
$40/person. Have to love this city! The sirloin itself was about
$15, and a smaller portion (which I recommend, as the full size is
simply too much) was only $12. See why I could move here?

The table next to us was an American college group on an experience
for a philosophy course. They seemed just as impressed and
overwhelmed by the food (and quantity!) as did I. This restaurant
would also be perfect for just an appetizer of the Proveleta and a
cold antipasto plate or salad - more than filling!

Back to the hotel much "lubricated" on Argentine wine, and off to bed
soon. But sharing this joy and experience while still in the moment
is important to your understanding of why you want to spend at least
a couple nights here pre- or post-cruise and get out into the neighborhoods.

Tomorrow it's off to the Leather Markets, a short rest at the hotel,
then out to the airport for a late night flight. Most international
flights to the US and Canada leave very late at night, so if staying
at a smaller hotel such as this, it's worth it to arrange a half day
room if possible to allow you to shower and rest before leaving for
the airport. It all depends on availability, but will make the
flight home more comfortable being fresh and rested after a day of
shopping. It's costing me about $80, but I'd say that's worth
it. You may choose otherwise, and most hotels are happy to store
your luggage for you from their regular check-out time until you
leave for the airport. Just another factor to consider as you make
your plans for Buenos Aires.

Probably won't be in touch again until I arrive home to Denver and
give you the final details, then one last post in this series on last
thoughts, on the ship, itinerary and other considerations when
planning a journey like this.

Of course, if you don't hear from me for a few extra days with the
wrap-up, don't worry - I'm likely just overwhelmed with clients who
have been awaiting my return. Of course, it may be possible I simply
couldn't bear to board the flight and instead am investigating
long-term rentals in Buenos Aires and how to forward my toll-free
line down here!