The Memories Linger On

It's just over a week since I disembarked from the Star Princess. Now that I'm back home and have had a chance to absorb and mentally review everything from the trip, I have a few wrap up thoughts about the experience.

Absolutely, positively, go in at least one day early. Not only were there many people who arrived the day of the cruise without their luggage (and didn't get it until 10 days into the cruise), but there were more who missed the ship due to flight problems - cancelled or delayed flights, both from the US and the UK. From talking with airline officials, cancelled flights aren't at all unusual to Rio or Buenos Aires, on many airlines, so you really need to plan for it. Again, those who arrived late and missed the ship couldn't catch up to it until 10 days later in Ushuaia, after the Antarctic and Falklands portions, as there are no flights from Argentina to the Falkland Islands (the Falklanders are still pretty touchy about contact with Argentines), so you'd have to fly to Santiago, Chile and then to the Falklands and hope the ship was able to make it into port to catch up any earlier - not a single passenger opted to do that.

In addition to the flight and luggage issues, there's so much to do in Buenos Aires and Argentina that it is an absolute shame to fly that far and not take advantage of it. Of course, Iguazu Falls is magnificent. But if that's just a bit too much for you, in time, cost or activity level, then going out to a Gaucho ranch near Buenos Aires, enjoying a traditional Tango show, or simply shopping and eating to your heart's content in the wonderful city should be enjoyed. I'd suggest 2 nights pre-cruise if you're just wanting to enjoy Buenos Aires, at least 3 if you want to do Iguazu Falls as well. As I've mentioned before, the Princess cruisetour or pre-cruise packages are also excellent.

Where to stay in Buenos Aires? If you're coming in and want to be in the heart of things, you can't miss with the Marriott. While it's an older, classic hotel (with the accompanying quirks in layout and physical amenities), it's in the perfect location and is one of the base hotels for Princess. While that means a bit of a crowd at check-out on embarkation day, it's still worth it to stay in such a historic hotel in the middle of the city.

I also want to compliment the Marriott on being solo traveler friendly. It's one of the few restaurants I've experienced where they as a matter of routine have several tables in the dining room set for solos. Makes you feel more comfortable when the table to which you're lead is intended for just one diner. Thank you, Marriott!

Prefer to be close to the port? The Hilton is about as close as you can get, and got good reviews from those I spoke with who stayed there.

There are other options, more and less expensive, in traditional hotels. You can have a spectacular experience with a splurge at a few options in the Recoleta neighborhood, or you can opt for budget options as well. If you want to be more in the residential neighborhoods than the downtown, I highly recommend one of the many excellent Boutique hotels Buenos Aires offers. The taxis are plentiful and CHEAP and you can get almost anywhere in about 30 minutes and $10 in cab fare.

Speaking of the cabs... if you think NY cabbies are wild, you are in for a surprise. These cabbies aren't aggressive, though they drive with an assertiveness which is sometimes a bit disconcerting. It's just the way of the streets in Buenos Aires. A 4 lane boulevard becomes a 6 lane, or a 6 lane becomes 8 with the lane markers merely suggestions. Need to turn but you're 2 lanes over? No problem, just do it! Stop signs are given mere taps on the breaks to slow a bit, though lights are well observed. Most cabbies speak hardly any English, so be prepared with your destination's address written out to give them. Always have your hotel's name and address written on a card as well. Do stick to the radio cabs with meters, but you can flag one down on the street or have your hotel, shop or restaurant do it or call one for you.

The more popular restaurants have waiters who speak English or even an English menu. Unlike many cities in the world, this doesn't necessarily mean it's a "tourist" restaurant you should avoid, but merely that they're understanding their clientele. The restaurants I planned for the evening were like that, and had a good mix of locals and visitors and were perfectly lovely. But smaller restaurants in neighborhoods may not have anyone who speaks a word of English, so be prepared with a menu translator - a couple pages from a guide book with suffice. When in doubt, ask the neighboring tables. You'll probably find someone who speaks a few words of English who is more than happy to assist.

The people of Buenos Aires are warm and friendly, and eager for you to enjoy your visit. You do need to be aware of street crimes in areas such as Calle Florida downtown, or the street markets such as San Telmo, so don't wear your expensive jewelry out, and beware as well about cameras. A popular scam is where several thieves work together. One may "accidentally" spill something on you, then another comes up to try to "help" clean you up. Don't fall for it. Push their hands away and be aware of everyone around you. I had absolutely no problems, but others on our sailing had experienced similar to what I described. Don't be afraid, just be aware.

I highly recommend use of a local tour operator, such as WOW! Argentina, when putting together packages. They have access to rooms, flights and events you may not be able to get yourself and often at better pricing. This can easily be arranged through your cruise travel agent if they are familiar with tour operator options in South America - they'll contact the local agent on your behalf and put everything together. It will give you a more seamless experience than doing everything a la carte.

Think it's time to talk about the ship. Princess is a middle-of-the-road line. They do most things well, but not necessarily spectacularly. The food is good, but few meals will be memorable. Service is good and friendly, but they don't anticipate requests as much as some other lines might. The ship is comfortable and fairly easily navigated, unless you're in traditional dining in the Amalfi dining room, which only has 2 elevators (one of which was out of service the entire duration of my sailing) serving it all the way at the aft of the ship. You cannot walk to the dining room without taking stairs, as the kitchen is also on that deck just a bit farther forward. So be prepared for stairs or perhaps a bit of a wait for the elevators. You'll get used to it and just need to plan to head back there a few minutes before your dining time. After the first couple nights, wasn't much of a problem.

After the two incidents earlier this season with the MS Fram and the sinking of the MS Explorer, there is a lot of discussion about ships in general in Antarctica, and the larger ships in specific. The Star Princess is by far the largest ship which sails these waters, and many would like to prohibit her. I felt 100% safe onboard her, and there definitely were advantages to her size in the views you could get and the comfort inside for those who were less physically able. If you're not looking for a landing expedition style Antarctic adventure, I wouldn't hesitate to book Princess. The captains, both the Master and the Ice Captain, were experienced in these waters, and I felt absolutely safe at all times. The steering they did and their decisions were amazing. Both came onboard in Buenos Aires specifically for this sailing, and I believe remain onboard through the February itinerary as well.

As to whether they will continue to do this itinerary, one comment in answer to a specific question during their final wrap-up lecture about whether or not Princess will continue this itinerary was quite telling. Princess will sail in Antarctica as long as their insurers will allow it. How far south we went was dictated by insurance (we weren't allowed farther than 65 degrees South, and because of ice didn't get quite that far). In the future, they may not be allowed even that far. I predict at some time in the future, these larger ships, not just the size of the Star Princess, but even the Celebrity and HAL ships which also have similar itineraries (though Crystal, Oceania and Azamara may still be allowed with their smaller ships), will no longer sail in Antarctica. If the Ice Continent is on your must-see list, then do it sooner rather than later or your options may be severely limited.

I do think the Star Princess was an ideal platform for viewing. As I mentioned, her height allowed for some spectacular views from the upper decks. I also wouldn't want to be on a ship without a wrap-around promenade. For those who are serious about ocean critter photography, being able to be lower down and in the bow is essential.

One hint if you're a coffee or hot chocolate lover. Get the coffee card. It's $25 for unlimited brewed coffees from the coffee bars (and if you've ever had Princess coffee, you know you want the fresh brewed not the free stuff from room service or the buffet), and 15 specialty coffees such as espresso, lattes or cappuccinos, or hot chocolate, either from the coffee bars, room service or in the dining rooms. When you come in from hours out in the elements, these hot drinks will be most welcome.

This is an itinerary for the emotionally adventurous, but you don't have to be physically nimble to enjoy the offerings. There were good excursions, even to penguins, in each port for those in wheelchairs. Many viewing areas which are accessible on the ship. While the Princess Theatre, where the lectures take place, isn't the greatest for those with limited mobility as it has a lot of stairs (though it does have good placement areas for wheelchairs), all the lectures are also viewable the same day on the cabin televisions. So if your spirit longs for this adventure, but your body takes a bit more convincing, know you can still have a spectacular experience on this ship in particular.

I also believe it was partially because of the size of the ship that our lecturers were of the quality they were. Dr. Stonehouse said part of his goal in life is to educate as many people as possible about Antarctica and its wildlife. A ship of this size gives him an unequalled platform to reach more people and truly touch them. And you know they're going to have an amazing Ice Captain on board to assist with navigation, but also who has the knowledge to educate us about the ice.

This ship was also quite stable even when we did experience small bits of inclement weather. There were a few times we had some significant rolls, mostly due to wind and not waves, but as someone who is motion sensitive, I was extremely comfortable. I even stopped taking my meclizine for a few nights (though I took it again when we went through Drake Passage, just in case). My drawer of different ginger options (I brought several different varieties just for a change of pace) went mostly unused, though I'll say I really liked the Newman's Own Ginger Mints. Easily transportable as they come in a wrapped roll, nice crisp taste, and definitely enough ginger in them to do the trick. I'll bring more of that next year. ( http://www.newmansownorganics.com/food_mints.html)

The ports were great, and in most, it pays to plan ahead. I made it a point to talk with passengers on a wide variety of the excursion options, so if you have questions about a specific excursion, let me know. I made choices based on my own preferences, interests and priorities, but there were many other choices available. I know not everyone is as penguin obsessed as I am.

It feels wonderful to be home, but I'm also going through a bit of culture shock. This trip was so spectacular that the regularity of home doesn't quite fit. But the first thing I unpacked (in truth, one of the only things - shhh, I'm bad about unpacking) is the little penguin figurine I found in Punta Arenas. I put him in the spot for which I purchased him, and look over at him every time I start to feel detached. Once I get caught up with business and am a bit more rested (managed to catch a bit of a cold on the way home - not terribly surprising as my seatmate was suffering from one, and glad it happened at the end not the beginning), I'll start working on the rest of my pictures and will post on the blog when each new "story" is posted for those who are interested.

People talk about the visual splendor of Alaska, and I agree with them. I grew up mostly in Alaska, and tell my clients that everything they've heard is true, and probably doesn't do justice to what they'll see up there. And people who have been to Alaska (or the Norwegian Fjords) probably think a glacier is a glacier and an iceberg an iceberg - what more could Antarctica offer?

All I can say is that Antarctica is the single most spectacular natural environment I've ever experienced. The vastness, the grandeur, the size, scope and history. It goes so far beyond anything else. I now understand why researchers get captivated with this continent and return year after year to such an isolated and extreme habitat. Think you know glaciers? Think again. Ice is ice? Not on your life. I never thought I'd be interested in the different types and how they're formed. I knew how glaciers form, but that's just the tip of the iceberg, pardon the pun.

Some might say that my experience was so spectacular because of the unusual weather we encountered. But it wasn't just the weather - no matter the weather everyone I've spoken to who has been to Antarctica comes away enchanted by the 7th Continent. I know that when I return next year, it will be very different. But equally bewitching and extraordinary because of that. The morning we spent at Elephant Island was misty and clouded. We never got to actually clearly see Cape Valentine where the Shackleton expedition first landed and tried to winter over after they left the ice pack. But it was amazing and inspiring, and not just because it was our first experience in Antarctica. Looking back, the sense of the inaccessibility and how tough the early explorers had it was enhanced by the less-than-perfect weather. We were also turned back from going to Esperanza Station by winds, waves and ice. That morning will stay in my memory forever for the light, waves and amazing vistas of the tabular bergs. While our sailing in Gerlache Strait and Neumeyer Channel was made more impressive by the clear skies which gave a bright clarity to the scenery, I can't wait to see them in another situation and experience another personality of the mountains and ice and water. Weather makes Antarctica special, but by that I mean *any* weather. It's all part of the whole, and the whole is overwhelming.

For those thinking of exploring Antarctica, on this ship, another mainstream line or one of the expeditions (believe me, I've investigated and researched those, too, as they were how I expected to first experience this region), please feel free to contact me by phone or email at amber@cruiseresource.com. While I do think the Star Princess offers a phenomenal value to Antarctica, which is why I've chosen to return on her and lead a group next year, other ships may better fit your preferences and style. But above all, if you've read all of this blog and review, and are captivated by the images and experience, you MUST go!

Only 200,000 people have ever been to Antarctica. If you're wanting true adventure, this is it.

After the Star Princess in 2009, I'll likely return again on another ship and probably do an expedition eventually as well (and this is coming from someone who doesn't tend to like to repeat places while there are still new places to explore). Africa (probably at least one trip) and the Galapagos will likely come first, but my plans have a way of changing. Wonder if one of the American Stations could use a travel agent with computer skills?

I apologize for the endless use of such superlatives and adjectives such as amazing, spectacular, inspiring, overwhelming and wonderful. My thesaurus wasn't up to the task of truly describing this cruise and the experiences. I hope the pictures filled in where my words failed.

If you'd like to read the entire blog from start to finish with larger pictures, I've archived it on my CruiseResource .com web site. You can find it at Live from the Star Princess Blog or under the CruiseResource and SinglesCruiseResource - Past Feature Articles link on my home page.

Thank you to everyone who has come with me on this voyage through this blog. Many of you have linked to it from several places, and I appreciate the remarks you've posted on several forums and sent to me through email. If I can answer any questions or help you in any way, let me know. This has been a remarkable experience, made more so by the very act of getting my thoughts and pictures together to share it with you. So you, too, have made this even more special. Thank you!

But have to leave you with one final picture in a bit of a different vein. Thanks to good friend and client, I had the perfect shoes for this cruise. Well known for his animal slipper collection to those on Cruise Critic HAL boards, he insisted I must have these slippers, and he was right. They were the hit of the ship every time I wore them. I've spoken about the Guins before, but it's time for you to meet the Guins, Pen and Penny Guin to be exact. I think I saw so many penguins that they've literally grown on me. So many wanted to bring a penguin home - I have my own!

This is me and the Guins on the final formal night. Don't you want to come with us to Antarctica next year?