Live from Azamara Quest: Palio, Tosca and Musings From an Independent Cruiser, Part 2

The drive to Verona was simple simple simple and for the most part very fast, except for a bit of holiday traffic slow-down outside Florence. Speed limits up to 130km/hr made for a nice drive, again going through mountains as I went from region to region. It's easy to see from the geography how the major regional powers were created, as there are very distinct geographical boundaries and differences.

Arriving in Verona, it's so clear that this is a Roman town. From the several Roman gates and structures still remaining, to the most prominent feature of the Coliseum, and even archaeological remnants beneath the town, this town breathes ancient Rome. It's often called the most Roman city outside Rome. But yet as you walk around, you see the later direct influence of Venice in the winged lions and more recent architectural style.

One of the nice things about these historic city centers is their size. It's very easy to get around, and if you plan your hotel strategically, not more than a 10-15 minute slow stroll almost anywhere in the historic center. I stayed at the modern Hotel Victoria Verona, a mere 5 minute stroll from the Arena. While it has a modern interior, and is large by historic center standards, it was still warm and comfortable. I'd tried for smaller hotels, but all were full for this holiday weekend. But the Victoria Verona was a lovely choice. Comfortable room, a fabulous shower (I want a larger version at home - it had both a regular shower head, a seat with waterfall heads above it and even foot jets), and down in one breakfast room, a plexiglass floor looking down into Roman ruins they discovered during excavations for their garage. Preserved in their basement, and viewable through the breakfast room floor, are beautiful inlayed marble mosaic flooring and the foundations of the original Roman structure.

The town and opera were all I expected and more. It was opening night for Tosca this season, and they did a wonderful job. The principals all had marvelous voices, and the acoustics in the Arena were so good that I could hear the orchestra turning the pages of their scores. There is no use of microphone or amplification, and absolutely no need.

The stage is simply enormous, and the set design, while appropriately simple for this production, were still on a grand scale. Typically, Tosca is performed with a minimal chorus, but they made use of the space and facilities and had a cast of hundreds where appropriate (probably the same ones who would be the necessary cast the next night for the more elaborate Aida).

There is a show within the show in this Arena, with the patrons almost as interesting as the opera itself. From glitter to grunge, people were dressed in everything from sequined floor-length and cocktail gowns to tee shirts and similar. Of course, the higher priced seats attracted more sequins and Italian glamor, but even in the "cheap seats" there were those who dressed for the event.

I was very glad I put a bit of attention into my attire and finishing as afterwards, I went to Cafe Tre Corone on the Piazza Bra, right next to the Arena. My hotel had made the reservations for me, as I'd asked for a festive environment, suitable for a woman alone for apres opera dining. Once there and seated at a prime table right on the Piazza, I surprised by the applause coming down from the Arena. Next thing I knew, the Maestro and Tosca herself and their party were seated at the next tables for their Opening Night celebratory dinner. Very nice!

Next morning and it's off to Venice. Again, easy drive, straight in and out to the ship to drop my luggage then return the car at Piazzale Roma just 5 minutes away. While the rental car agency was closed by the time I arrived on Sunday, my rental was actually three days (the minimum to do a one-way drop with this company), so I could just park the car, drop the keys and contract in their drop box and was all set.

As special as all these travels were, I have to admit it was nice to be greeted back aboard the ship by security with a "welcome home did you have a good time?" Not to mention the decorations on my cabin door. But the final touch which made my homecoming perfect was just a couple minutes after arriving in my cabin, I opened my door to my cabin steward welcoming me back aboard and bringing me much-needed fresh water and ice. He hadn't wanted the ice to have melted, and knew I used it frequently, so he must have had security notify him when I returned, as he was right there to greet me. So nice to come home to that! Another advantage to independent travel combined with a cruise of this quality.

This has gotten quite long, so I'll write about Venice, the traditional cicchetti pub crawl tour with another Rick Steves' guide, and my birthday celebration at midnight in St. Mark's square next time. However, I wanted to put Siena and Verona together, as they really needed to be examined as a whole.

Using the ship as a stepping board to so much more really opened up this trip to be what I wanted it to be. It's a very different trip than what others are enjoying, but each of us is creating the right travel scenario for our desires. I did spend a bit more to travel away from the ship, but far less than if I were doing all my travel by land. The combination affords value and flexibility, something many don't realize is accessible through cruising, yet is at the core of modern cruise itineraries such as this one, and Deluxe and Luxury lines.

The ship made it very easy for me to do this, just asking that I register in advance with them, and provide my passport so that port officials in Ravenna could allow my departure from the ship. While we hadn't left Italy, there are still formalities in port, and the ship does need to know where you are. I have no problem with that, and as a solo woman traveler, it's quite comforting.

At every step along the way, I made sure the hotels knew when I made reservations I was a woman traveling alone, and felt very cared for. I have always found that to be the case, and find that people are eager to help solo travelers, and especially women. Never did I encounter a disparaging "you're alone" remark, but rather the more approving "you're alone!" The planning was much more challenging than the actual activity logistics to do, and it was far less tiring than I'd feared. The memories created will stay with me forever, and I wouldn't have missed it for the world.

If you have any desire to travel like this, do it! Create your own vacation, using a cruise as a platform and transportation. Go beyond checking things off your "bucket list" to creating memories of things you truly want to experience, not just attend. It's possible and easy from a cruise.

As I write this, we've been sailing out of the Venice lagoon and are on our way to the lovely Dubrovnik. I cannot wait for a special day tomorrow with a new friend who lives there. Another memory to be made.


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