Live From Azamara Quest: A Tender Topic

Tendering. A word which strikes fear in the hearts of most cruisers, evoking visions of early mornings, long lines, crowded, hot life boats, and trying to finagle priority passes. But on Azamara and other small ships in the Deluxe and Luxury categories, like the rest of life onboard, it's no problem at all.



We have 4 tender ports this cruise - Sorrento, Taormina, Dubrovnik and La Spezia, for a total of 5 days out of 14. On a large ship, that would be a pain in the neck unless you were entitled to priority passes through elite repeat passenger benefits or being in a suite. But here, there are no passes, no lines, and I've not waited more than 10 minutes for a tender, either ashore or onboard. They don't even wait until the tender is full to send it. They run them continuously so no need to get every last passenger crammed aboard.



Making it even easier is due to the small size of the ship, even in ports where all ships must tender, they can anchor closer to shore than the larger ships, making for shorter (and often smoother) tender rides.



With less than 700 passengers onboard, short rides and constant tenders, not to mention chilled towels, water, lemonade and fruit juice waiting for you at the tender dock, there's just nothing to worry about with tendering anymore. It's virtually as easy as being docked. Tendering is no longer a sore, tender subject.





Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device from WIND

Live From Azamara Quest: Palio, Tosca and Musings From an Independent Cruiser, Part 1

Its been quite some 4 days. If you have been following me on Twitter (www.twitter.com/cruiseresource), you have gotten a taste of what Ive been doing, but as promised, Im writing more about my travels, adventures and what I experienced along the way. Look to the twitter posts at the above address for the accompanying pictures to the tales below.

As a bit of background, when I planned this trip and saw that we had an overnight in Ravenna, I started researching options in the nearby region. There is so much in the area, from Bologna to Verona and more. I wanted to see what kind of options there were, and kept in mind the possibility that I could remain off the ship at night if I chose. Having that option allowed me to be more creative in what I explored for choices. I didnt presume at first I'd overnight away, but I kept that in my mind as I researched.

I first looked at Bologna, a wonderful city with lots of great history, architecture and... FOOD! But looking there, I also looked out from there another hour on the train to Verona. And discovered the summer opera festival held in their first century Roman Coliseum. Well, no question there, I wanted to go see that! So began the planning.

Because of the timing of the opera (beginning at 9P and usually concluding after midnight), it became obvious that I would need to overnight there. No problem, as the train service from Ravenna through Bologna was excellent and frequent.

But suddenly I realized that I was going to be in Italy in mid-August, and remembered that Palio is run in Siena during that time frame. So off I went in Google to check the dates...and yes! They did coincide with the dates in Ravenna.

So the research expanded, to see first if I could find a hotel at that late date (less than 2 months before I arrived) in a location I wanted and a price I could afford. It turned out easier than I expected as I found a hotel with single availability and for Palio very reasonably priced.

The next step was logistics. Could I get from Ravenna to Siena via train and bus in time for the evening practice race, and then from Siena to Verona again train and bus after the morning trials but arrive in Verona in time for the opera? Unfortunately, this is where I ran into a snag, as I could easily get to Siena, but my journey to Verona fell on a Saturday and a major Italian holiday, Ferragasto, to boot, and the connections were just not working.

At this point I almost cancelled my Siena plans, but the hotel encouraged me to consider driving, as the routing was fairly easy and straight forward. I hadn't thought about driving, but the craziness most people bring to mind when they think of Italian drivers is more about city driving, especially in Rome and farther south, and this would be highway traffic. Not so different than driving at home, especially if you've traveled in the region before. Italy drives on the right, like America, so no big deal there.

Was able to arrange a one-way car rental picking up in Ravenna and dropping off near the pier in Venice at a reasonable price, not much more than the bus/train option was going to cost, and could then control the scheduling, so it all fell into place.

While I considered the fact it was a lot of driving to do, for not a lot of time in each destination, my decision was made based on whether or not I would feel regret if I didn't take the opportunity presented by the situation. I just couldn't pass up either event. So off I went!

The essence of independent travel is both being prepared and flexible. While you can just wing it if you're not on a schedule, or if you're based off a ship for a day or two, this type of travel does require a bit more structure. But once the logistics are arranged, after that, you're free to follow your fancy.

So many people consider cruising too structured. But ships and itineraries such as the Azamara Quest have very little structure at all. Extended times in port or overnights to come and go as you wish, lots of options because of the ports visited, and flexible scheduling onboard. While I went farther afield I think than most, when I returned I was regaled with stories of others' adventures in Bologna, Ravenna, evenings ashore during the traditional night-time stroll Italians enjoy and other experiences most cruisers can't take advantage of because of port schedules. While there had been some grumbling about Ravenna as an overnight destination, most I've spoken with upon returning really enjoyed their time if they ventured into the surrouding areas.

So back to my adventures. I must say that regardless of who you rent your car through, driving in any foreign country you really must use a GPS. It's especially necessary when traveling alone, as there's no one to read the map for you while you drive. But even with a companion, it helps so much to be able to concentrate just on driving, not on navigating, and ensures you can have a more relaxed, successful drive with minimal frustrations. If you don't have a GPS model with downloadable map sets, simply request a unit from your rental agency when you make your reservations. They're fairly inexpensive and completely invaluable.

Ravenna to Siena was absolutely gorgeous through the countryside and mountains. Instead of taking the most direct route through Bologna and Florence, I decided instead to go via Arezzo so I could see more of Italy. Further deciding to avoid toll roads, I drove some mountain highways which were fun if you like that sort of thing, and even in my little 4 cylinder car, I scooted around the curves. Could have taken the easier route, but this added some personal fun for me. Got a little sense of being a true Italian driver.

Thank heavens for GPS in Siena getting to the car drop for my hotel, as I don't think I'd ever have negotiated it without that plus the hotel's directions. Typical medieval road plan, meaning very little plan at all and designed to frustrate tourist...er, I mean invaders. But got there safely and settled in immediately.

Before I could even freshen up, I began to hear drums beating outside the walls. It was time for the afternoon parades and presentation of the colors of the various contrade. From my research, I knew there would be parades and traditional dress, but nothing prepared me for the extent and passion of it all.

As I exited my hotel, I was enveloped in the atmosphere. From every direction began to appear the contrade, the traditional family neighborhoods, heralding their processions by a repeated drum marching tune, and their two flag bearers flourishing their colors as they waved their huge flags in unison. In this fashion, they proceeded through the streets one by one toward Il Campo, the city square, and the City Hall.

I walked down to the Campo, not more than a couple hundred strides away, to watch their entry into the square. As they arrived one-by-one, or sometimes two at a time from different directions, they strove to out drum or give extra flourishes to their flag presentations to outshine their rival neighborhoods.

Proceeding into the City Hall, I was surprised at how relatively empty the Campo was. There were some viewers in the stands, and some in the center of the square, along with vendors, but nothing at all what I expected. Little did I know this was the lull before the storm. I think most of the town was still in siesta resting up for the evening.

After formalities of some sort in the City Hall, back out came all the contrade, with their drummers, to the sounds of trumpeters blazing from the upper windows. The processioneers began their journeys through the streets back to their contradas to await the evening return. I went up to the main street to watch them pass by, not one after another as it wasn't that kind of parade, but they each passed by at some point in their travels home. The drums (and crowds) heralded their approach, but otherwise it wasn't a predictable event when the next contrada group would appear.

As they went back to their families, I wandered a bit, then returned to the hotel to cool down and rest (both necessary with the heat and humidity, especially in the square) before the night's activities.

At around 6, I began to hear singing from the streets, so rushed down to see what was happening. No drummers this time, as they would disturb the horses, and horses there were! This time, each horse, attired in only their colored harness, was walked through the streets escorted by members of the contrada to which they were assigned. You see, the horses aren't raised or even directly chosen by the contrade - it's a lottery system to make it more fair and even.

As they walked through the the streets, first came the flag bearer in traditional dress, then the horse and trainer, followed finally by the men of the extended family and the women. All the men and women were singing their family songs, with beautiful, strong and loud voices in harmony. Most all wore their family kerchiefs with their colors and symbols (owl, dragon, unicorn, cheetah, etc), and some even wore coordinated shirts.

Again, one after another, they proceeded to the square. The horse was escorted into the City Hall (yup, right inside), and the contrada to their places of honor in the stands.

It was now that I began to realize that while there were plenty of tourists, we were relegated to a secondary role. We really weren't the reason this was put on - it truly was for the families and their pride and tradition. The huge majority of space in the stands was reserved for them, while the tourists got to stand in the very hot, and now very crowded square center. But that's how it should be, and seemed right and proper. We were tolerated, but it wasn't all about us. And that made it even more special.

The square was filled with good-hearted but serious and spirited rivalry, mostly expressed through singing across the square at each other. Groups of women, men, young and old, would erupt in their traditional songs, trying to drown out their arch rivals. Even groups of 4-5 younger men in the center of the square would express their pride in this way.

People were everywhere; in the windows of the upper floors of the City Hall, from the balconies of the surrounding buildings, even the roof tops. Some were in a festival mood, others were extremely serious. And this was only a practice race! It was a chance for them to see how their jockeys performed, their horse's strengths, decide strategy and build up to the event on Sunday.

Finally, with the boom of a cannon, the horses emerged from the City Hall and proceeded 1/2 way around the square to the start. 9 of the 10 horses (only 10 of the 17 contrade compete each time - those left out are guaranteed a spot in the next series, which will be in June) line up against two hemp ropes, with the final horse and rider determining the actual start by running up at their choice of time to the ropes and starting the race.

Three times around the dirt track created on the outside edge of the square, and it's over. Huge excitement as they ran, and everyone in the center of the square turned 360s trying to watch. It's a definite advantage to be on the upper edge, as you could look over the heads of those lower down to see the horses as they passed by the City Hall, but in many ways it's not about seeing the horses themselves, but just watching everything involved.

After the trial, the horses are again escorted out and back to the safety of their neighborhoods by their family groups. When I say safety, I mean it seriously. There is a long history and tradition of shady activities at times between the rivals. While the horses are never permanently harmed, that's beyond acceptable, there is doping of the horses, riders, bribes and other activities trying to glean an edge. This is serious business, with pride of the family on the line. These actions aren't condoned, but there's more to the parades and escorting than just presentation.

My hotel, the fantastic, comfortable and family run Palazzo Fani Mignanelli, had made dinner reservations for me that evening, but frankly I was so tired from the drive and the heat and standing that all I wanted was a large bottle of water and a panini and sleep, and that's exactly what I did. I'm sorry I didn't get to experience a local neighborhood restaurant, as the streets were filled with family revelry, but I wanted to enjoy the next morning as well. I could hear the singing and high spirits from my room, but it blended into the atmosphere of a very good night's sleep.

After a very nice breakfast the next morning, back in the streets about 8:15 to watch all over again. Less pageantry for the morning trial, and far fewer people (I think most were still sleeping after the evening's activities), which meant that it was possible to get a place at the rail and watch as the horses rode by. Learned a lesson too this morning - stand by the rail and you're subject to being pelted with dirt clods from the horse's hooves as they pass by. I know of what I speak as it took several minutes later in the shower to get all the dirt out of my hair!

Still singing, still serious, but it's clear the morning practices are more about the horses and trials themselves than the contrade presentations and rivalries. The final evening trial to be held that night is the most important of all the trials, with huge neighborhood communal dinners afterwards, but alas, it was time for me to leave for Verona.

I'd said before I attended the trials that I was glad I wasn't going to be at the main Palio event, as it would be too hot and crowded, and at less than 5' tall, I'd never experience anything... I was wrong. I only got a sampling of the tradition and presentation, along with the spirit and pride, though it was far more than I imagined it would be, now it means I just want more. I will be back again, and for longer. Siena, you got me!

Driving out of town toward Verona via Florence and Bologna, my thoughts were centered both on the beauty of Tuscany passing by my windows, but also on what I had just experienced. Because this is a "true" event, not a staged one to wring cash out of unwitting tourists, I felt I'd been given a window into medieval life and structure, when family was first, then town/state and then later country. I think if I asked locals in Siena who they were, they'd give first their contrada affiliation, then Siena, then finally Italian. It's a clarity of identity and connection most of us have lost in our world, regardless of where we are, and experiencing it made me long for that type of successful rivalry where pride is defended through a horse race and you always have your family with you. I'm sure there's another side of the family rivalries, perhaps more seedy and violent, but it's still a very good way to work and live in harmony but retain your identity. I long for that in my life.

If anyone in Siena is reading this, would you consider adopting me into your contrada? My heart has already joined you. Please?

Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device from WIND

Live from Azamara Quest: La Dolce Far Niente, Limoncello and Connecting in Sorrento

Thanks to a tip from my waiter at lunch, found my perfect limoncello with very little sampling today, so not too tipsy but just chatty enough to write another blog entry for you.

It was a wonderful, peaceful day in Sorrento today. Since this was our second day in port, didn't have to feel rushed or harried to get ashore first thing this morning, but still could get there earlier than the groups coming in from Princess or Royal Caribbean docked in Naples. After the best cappuccino I've ever had (at Mona Lisa Bar in a small square at the corner of Via Cesareo (the main shopping alley) and Via Giuliani, recommended by who else but a limoncello shop owner), I wandered with no itinerary or plan the streets and alleys of old town in the relative cool of the morning, with just enough breeze and shade to keep it pleasant, but still aware that this is Southern Italy.

Yes, I could have had a perfectly wonderful cappuccino onboard at the Mosaic Cafe, but why would I when I could be ashore in Italy in just 10 minutes?

After exploring, window shopping and generally wandering to get a feel of the old town, I headed down to a municipal park on the cliffs (from where I took the first pictures posted yesterday in my twitter series at www.twitter.com/cruiseresource). There I asked an older Italian couple if I could join them on their bench, which started an hour of wonderful "conversation" between the three of us using my very basic Italian, even less English on their part, and a bit of French between us.

With much laughter, it was an experience such as I'd hoped for when planning this trip with this itinerary. I wanted to take time to spend with locals, not in the tourist or retail sectors, and truly enjoy getting to know one another just a bit. I did prepare myself with a touch of Rosetta Stone lessons which helped more than I realized, but there is a universal language when all parties are willing.

We discussed Naples vs. Sorrento, their family, my lack of family (I think he was trying to convince me to meet one of their nephews, but that wasn't clear enough for me to accept, darn it), Poland where she was originally from, and just generally enjoyed each other. It wasn't what we talked about, but that we all shared which created the memory. If I had just been here for one day on a typical cruise, I would have had too many things on my "to do" list to take that kind of time and be in the frame of mind to experience "la dolche far niente" (the joy of doing nothing, a specialty of the region). I wasn't seeking to chat, merely to sit awhile and watch the sea and people, so the conversation was an unexpected bonus. However, you have to have the time and be open to that kind of experience for it to happen.

A wonderful lunch at L'Antiqua Trattoria (recommended again by Rick Steves), with a great waiter who has worked all around the world and companions at the next table from Northern England staying here for the week on holiday, then it was off to Limonoro, the limoncello store recommended by the waiter.

I'd passed the store earlier in the day and noted I wanted to go back, as it looked less commercial with hand decorated bottles, only one brand, though several different types, and most importantly, vats in the back.

Since it was still during lunch time, and the early tour groups were either eating or had moved on down the coast, the shop was quiet, with only another couple inside. When they left, I told the owner that I was looking for local, family-created limoncello, and why, and we had a great conversation. His family has been making and bottling limoncello for 6 generations, and it's still entirely in the family, only selling in their own store. In addition to the traditional type, they had the best crema limoncello I've tried (smooth, not medicinal tasting as they can sometimes become), and a wonderful melon as well. Add in limoncello-filled candies and drops and I was in limoncello heaven.

Since I left there laden with heavy bottles, along with a small gift from the owner I've yet to figure out (I think it's a bread-like confection bottled in limoncello, but if anyone can tell me what "Limonoro Baba' described as mini baba' artigianali con liquore limonoro is, I'd appreciate it!), it was time I headed back to the ship where I will enjoy a quick nap, sailaway with a lovely drink on the aft deck a bit later, and the knowledge that I didn't just see Sorrento and the Amalfi coast, but got to experience it just a little, thanks to this wonderful itinerary.

The biggest decision remaining after these wonderful two days is what shall I do for dinner. A pretty wonderful way to travel, this Deluxe cruising, isn't it?

Live from Azamara Quest: Blackberries in Europe

This trip, I decided to try an experiment: Can I keep in contact, blog, tweet and do email, without my laptop?

So many times onboard a ship, I feel that all my spare time is spent checking and responding to email, blogging and otherwise taking care of business, rather than enjoying the ship and relaxing. Having recently upgraded to a prosumer level Blackberry (Curve 8900), figured this was the perfect cruise to try it out.

Through my regular cellular provider in the US, T-Mobile, I could purchase an unlimited email plan for $19.95/month. That would take care of emails, which is the majority of what I'm doing (I am even submitting these blog posts via email), but what about things like GPS, tweets, etc? Those things take data, and the cost for that through TMo is a jaw-dropping $15/mb. At that rate, a couple week's worth of even moderate data use could cost several hundred dollars.

So I set out to find a prepaid Italian SIM card with data and Blackberry plan I could use. By researching on www.prepaidgsm.net's web site and forum, it seemed that Wind was the stronger of the two major carriers in Italy (the other being TIM) for affordable options in data plans. I further was directed to the marvelous Blochin at www.saveonroaming.net who walked me through the options, helped me get set up, and sent me a card which is working beautifully.

While I could have waited until I arrived in Rome to go to a Wind store, and purchase a card there, saving a bit (and indeed had mapped out the nearest outlets to my hotel), I wanted to have my number before I left so I could leave it with friends and local vendors here, plus ensure everything was working properly.

Now, the card I got is only for Italy. Other companies have cards with competitive rates which are good throughout Europe. But this made the most sense for here. All my data and emails are included, and even my calls back to the US are less than with my TMo card. I am carrying both, but this Wind card is what I'll use most of the time.

In addition, I made one other purchase to make this all easier: a folding bluetooth keyboard. If I'm going to be writing blog entries such as this, and responding to emails, it will speed my time considerably. While I can use the keyboard on the Blackberry for emails while I'm out and about and have down time (driving from here to there, etc.), for dedicated typing, this is perfect.

So I've eliminated a ton of weight and space for my laptop, freed me up for working anywhere anytime, and hopefully given myself more time to just sit and enjoy. Hopefully. I'll report back at the end to let you know if that's actually the case.

Oh yes, and even after purchasing the card AND the keyboard, I should still have spent less than I would have using the ship's internet. Major win-win!