Antarctica Pictures Posted!

As promised, I've posted the expanded set of pictures from the Star Princess South America/Antarctica sailing in January on my website. Of course, this isn't all the pictures, but they're the ones in my mind which are the best and tell the stories I most enjoyed. Most of them you haven't seen before.

Thought I should probably get these up for you before I start tantalizing you with pictures from the Galapagos in a couple weeks.

You can find them at Amber Waves Photography. Hope you enjoy them!

This will be my last blog until I return on March 25. See you then!

The Memories Linger On

It's just over a week since I disembarked from the Star Princess. Now that I'm back home and have had a chance to absorb and mentally review everything from the trip, I have a few wrap up thoughts about the experience.

Absolutely, positively, go in at least one day early. Not only were there many people who arrived the day of the cruise without their luggage (and didn't get it until 10 days into the cruise), but there were more who missed the ship due to flight problems - cancelled or delayed flights, both from the US and the UK. From talking with airline officials, cancelled flights aren't at all unusual to Rio or Buenos Aires, on many airlines, so you really need to plan for it. Again, those who arrived late and missed the ship couldn't catch up to it until 10 days later in Ushuaia, after the Antarctic and Falklands portions, as there are no flights from Argentina to the Falkland Islands (the Falklanders are still pretty touchy about contact with Argentines), so you'd have to fly to Santiago, Chile and then to the Falklands and hope the ship was able to make it into port to catch up any earlier - not a single passenger opted to do that.

In addition to the flight and luggage issues, there's so much to do in Buenos Aires and Argentina that it is an absolute shame to fly that far and not take advantage of it. Of course, Iguazu Falls is magnificent. But if that's just a bit too much for you, in time, cost or activity level, then going out to a Gaucho ranch near Buenos Aires, enjoying a traditional Tango show, or simply shopping and eating to your heart's content in the wonderful city should be enjoyed. I'd suggest 2 nights pre-cruise if you're just wanting to enjoy Buenos Aires, at least 3 if you want to do Iguazu Falls as well. As I've mentioned before, the Princess cruisetour or pre-cruise packages are also excellent.

Where to stay in Buenos Aires? If you're coming in and want to be in the heart of things, you can't miss with the Marriott. While it's an older, classic hotel (with the accompanying quirks in layout and physical amenities), it's in the perfect location and is one of the base hotels for Princess. While that means a bit of a crowd at check-out on embarkation day, it's still worth it to stay in such a historic hotel in the middle of the city.

I also want to compliment the Marriott on being solo traveler friendly. It's one of the few restaurants I've experienced where they as a matter of routine have several tables in the dining room set for solos. Makes you feel more comfortable when the table to which you're lead is intended for just one diner. Thank you, Marriott!

Prefer to be close to the port? The Hilton is about as close as you can get, and got good reviews from those I spoke with who stayed there.

There are other options, more and less expensive, in traditional hotels. You can have a spectacular experience with a splurge at a few options in the Recoleta neighborhood, or you can opt for budget options as well. If you want to be more in the residential neighborhoods than the downtown, I highly recommend one of the many excellent Boutique hotels Buenos Aires offers. The taxis are plentiful and CHEAP and you can get almost anywhere in about 30 minutes and $10 in cab fare.

Speaking of the cabs... if you think NY cabbies are wild, you are in for a surprise. These cabbies aren't aggressive, though they drive with an assertiveness which is sometimes a bit disconcerting. It's just the way of the streets in Buenos Aires. A 4 lane boulevard becomes a 6 lane, or a 6 lane becomes 8 with the lane markers merely suggestions. Need to turn but you're 2 lanes over? No problem, just do it! Stop signs are given mere taps on the breaks to slow a bit, though lights are well observed. Most cabbies speak hardly any English, so be prepared with your destination's address written out to give them. Always have your hotel's name and address written on a card as well. Do stick to the radio cabs with meters, but you can flag one down on the street or have your hotel, shop or restaurant do it or call one for you.

The more popular restaurants have waiters who speak English or even an English menu. Unlike many cities in the world, this doesn't necessarily mean it's a "tourist" restaurant you should avoid, but merely that they're understanding their clientele. The restaurants I planned for the evening were like that, and had a good mix of locals and visitors and were perfectly lovely. But smaller restaurants in neighborhoods may not have anyone who speaks a word of English, so be prepared with a menu translator - a couple pages from a guide book with suffice. When in doubt, ask the neighboring tables. You'll probably find someone who speaks a few words of English who is more than happy to assist.

The people of Buenos Aires are warm and friendly, and eager for you to enjoy your visit. You do need to be aware of street crimes in areas such as Calle Florida downtown, or the street markets such as San Telmo, so don't wear your expensive jewelry out, and beware as well about cameras. A popular scam is where several thieves work together. One may "accidentally" spill something on you, then another comes up to try to "help" clean you up. Don't fall for it. Push their hands away and be aware of everyone around you. I had absolutely no problems, but others on our sailing had experienced similar to what I described. Don't be afraid, just be aware.

I highly recommend use of a local tour operator, such as WOW! Argentina, when putting together packages. They have access to rooms, flights and events you may not be able to get yourself and often at better pricing. This can easily be arranged through your cruise travel agent if they are familiar with tour operator options in South America - they'll contact the local agent on your behalf and put everything together. It will give you a more seamless experience than doing everything a la carte.

Think it's time to talk about the ship. Princess is a middle-of-the-road line. They do most things well, but not necessarily spectacularly. The food is good, but few meals will be memorable. Service is good and friendly, but they don't anticipate requests as much as some other lines might. The ship is comfortable and fairly easily navigated, unless you're in traditional dining in the Amalfi dining room, which only has 2 elevators (one of which was out of service the entire duration of my sailing) serving it all the way at the aft of the ship. You cannot walk to the dining room without taking stairs, as the kitchen is also on that deck just a bit farther forward. So be prepared for stairs or perhaps a bit of a wait for the elevators. You'll get used to it and just need to plan to head back there a few minutes before your dining time. After the first couple nights, wasn't much of a problem.

After the two incidents earlier this season with the MS Fram and the sinking of the MS Explorer, there is a lot of discussion about ships in general in Antarctica, and the larger ships in specific. The Star Princess is by far the largest ship which sails these waters, and many would like to prohibit her. I felt 100% safe onboard her, and there definitely were advantages to her size in the views you could get and the comfort inside for those who were less physically able. If you're not looking for a landing expedition style Antarctic adventure, I wouldn't hesitate to book Princess. The captains, both the Master and the Ice Captain, were experienced in these waters, and I felt absolutely safe at all times. The steering they did and their decisions were amazing. Both came onboard in Buenos Aires specifically for this sailing, and I believe remain onboard through the February itinerary as well.

As to whether they will continue to do this itinerary, one comment in answer to a specific question during their final wrap-up lecture about whether or not Princess will continue this itinerary was quite telling. Princess will sail in Antarctica as long as their insurers will allow it. How far south we went was dictated by insurance (we weren't allowed farther than 65 degrees South, and because of ice didn't get quite that far). In the future, they may not be allowed even that far. I predict at some time in the future, these larger ships, not just the size of the Star Princess, but even the Celebrity and HAL ships which also have similar itineraries (though Crystal, Oceania and Azamara may still be allowed with their smaller ships), will no longer sail in Antarctica. If the Ice Continent is on your must-see list, then do it sooner rather than later or your options may be severely limited.

I do think the Star Princess was an ideal platform for viewing. As I mentioned, her height allowed for some spectacular views from the upper decks. I also wouldn't want to be on a ship without a wrap-around promenade. For those who are serious about ocean critter photography, being able to be lower down and in the bow is essential.

One hint if you're a coffee or hot chocolate lover. Get the coffee card. It's $25 for unlimited brewed coffees from the coffee bars (and if you've ever had Princess coffee, you know you want the fresh brewed not the free stuff from room service or the buffet), and 15 specialty coffees such as espresso, lattes or cappuccinos, or hot chocolate, either from the coffee bars, room service or in the dining rooms. When you come in from hours out in the elements, these hot drinks will be most welcome.

This is an itinerary for the emotionally adventurous, but you don't have to be physically nimble to enjoy the offerings. There were good excursions, even to penguins, in each port for those in wheelchairs. Many viewing areas which are accessible on the ship. While the Princess Theatre, where the lectures take place, isn't the greatest for those with limited mobility as it has a lot of stairs (though it does have good placement areas for wheelchairs), all the lectures are also viewable the same day on the cabin televisions. So if your spirit longs for this adventure, but your body takes a bit more convincing, know you can still have a spectacular experience on this ship in particular.

I also believe it was partially because of the size of the ship that our lecturers were of the quality they were. Dr. Stonehouse said part of his goal in life is to educate as many people as possible about Antarctica and its wildlife. A ship of this size gives him an unequalled platform to reach more people and truly touch them. And you know they're going to have an amazing Ice Captain on board to assist with navigation, but also who has the knowledge to educate us about the ice.

This ship was also quite stable even when we did experience small bits of inclement weather. There were a few times we had some significant rolls, mostly due to wind and not waves, but as someone who is motion sensitive, I was extremely comfortable. I even stopped taking my meclizine for a few nights (though I took it again when we went through Drake Passage, just in case). My drawer of different ginger options (I brought several different varieties just for a change of pace) went mostly unused, though I'll say I really liked the Newman's Own Ginger Mints. Easily transportable as they come in a wrapped roll, nice crisp taste, and definitely enough ginger in them to do the trick. I'll bring more of that next year. ( http://www.newmansownorganics.com/food_mints.html)

The ports were great, and in most, it pays to plan ahead. I made it a point to talk with passengers on a wide variety of the excursion options, so if you have questions about a specific excursion, let me know. I made choices based on my own preferences, interests and priorities, but there were many other choices available. I know not everyone is as penguin obsessed as I am.

It feels wonderful to be home, but I'm also going through a bit of culture shock. This trip was so spectacular that the regularity of home doesn't quite fit. But the first thing I unpacked (in truth, one of the only things - shhh, I'm bad about unpacking) is the little penguin figurine I found in Punta Arenas. I put him in the spot for which I purchased him, and look over at him every time I start to feel detached. Once I get caught up with business and am a bit more rested (managed to catch a bit of a cold on the way home - not terribly surprising as my seatmate was suffering from one, and glad it happened at the end not the beginning), I'll start working on the rest of my pictures and will post on the blog when each new "story" is posted for those who are interested.

People talk about the visual splendor of Alaska, and I agree with them. I grew up mostly in Alaska, and tell my clients that everything they've heard is true, and probably doesn't do justice to what they'll see up there. And people who have been to Alaska (or the Norwegian Fjords) probably think a glacier is a glacier and an iceberg an iceberg - what more could Antarctica offer?

All I can say is that Antarctica is the single most spectacular natural environment I've ever experienced. The vastness, the grandeur, the size, scope and history. It goes so far beyond anything else. I now understand why researchers get captivated with this continent and return year after year to such an isolated and extreme habitat. Think you know glaciers? Think again. Ice is ice? Not on your life. I never thought I'd be interested in the different types and how they're formed. I knew how glaciers form, but that's just the tip of the iceberg, pardon the pun.

Some might say that my experience was so spectacular because of the unusual weather we encountered. But it wasn't just the weather - no matter the weather everyone I've spoken to who has been to Antarctica comes away enchanted by the 7th Continent. I know that when I return next year, it will be very different. But equally bewitching and extraordinary because of that. The morning we spent at Elephant Island was misty and clouded. We never got to actually clearly see Cape Valentine where the Shackleton expedition first landed and tried to winter over after they left the ice pack. But it was amazing and inspiring, and not just because it was our first experience in Antarctica. Looking back, the sense of the inaccessibility and how tough the early explorers had it was enhanced by the less-than-perfect weather. We were also turned back from going to Esperanza Station by winds, waves and ice. That morning will stay in my memory forever for the light, waves and amazing vistas of the tabular bergs. While our sailing in Gerlache Strait and Neumeyer Channel was made more impressive by the clear skies which gave a bright clarity to the scenery, I can't wait to see them in another situation and experience another personality of the mountains and ice and water. Weather makes Antarctica special, but by that I mean *any* weather. It's all part of the whole, and the whole is overwhelming.

For those thinking of exploring Antarctica, on this ship, another mainstream line or one of the expeditions (believe me, I've investigated and researched those, too, as they were how I expected to first experience this region), please feel free to contact me by phone or email at amber@cruiseresource.com. While I do think the Star Princess offers a phenomenal value to Antarctica, which is why I've chosen to return on her and lead a group next year, other ships may better fit your preferences and style. But above all, if you've read all of this blog and review, and are captivated by the images and experience, you MUST go!

Only 200,000 people have ever been to Antarctica. If you're wanting true adventure, this is it.

After the Star Princess in 2009, I'll likely return again on another ship and probably do an expedition eventually as well (and this is coming from someone who doesn't tend to like to repeat places while there are still new places to explore). Africa (probably at least one trip) and the Galapagos will likely come first, but my plans have a way of changing. Wonder if one of the American Stations could use a travel agent with computer skills?

I apologize for the endless use of such superlatives and adjectives such as amazing, spectacular, inspiring, overwhelming and wonderful. My thesaurus wasn't up to the task of truly describing this cruise and the experiences. I hope the pictures filled in where my words failed.

If you'd like to read the entire blog from start to finish with larger pictures, I've archived it on my CruiseResource .com web site. You can find it at Live from the Star Princess Blog or under the CruiseResource and SinglesCruiseResource - Past Feature Articles link on my home page.

Thank you to everyone who has come with me on this voyage through this blog. Many of you have linked to it from several places, and I appreciate the remarks you've posted on several forums and sent to me through email. If I can answer any questions or help you in any way, let me know. This has been a remarkable experience, made more so by the very act of getting my thoughts and pictures together to share it with you. So you, too, have made this even more special. Thank you!

But have to leave you with one final picture in a bit of a different vein. Thanks to good friend and client, I had the perfect shoes for this cruise. Well known for his animal slipper collection to those on Cruise Critic HAL boards, he insisted I must have these slippers, and he was right. They were the hit of the ship every time I wore them. I've spoken about the Guins before, but it's time for you to meet the Guins, Pen and Penny Guin to be exact. I think I saw so many penguins that they've literally grown on me. So many wanted to bring a penguin home - I have my own!

This is me and the Guins on the final formal night. Don't you want to come with us to Antarctica next year?

Shoppers Alert!

This is my second-to-last posting regarding the Star Princess
Antarctic cruise. While I have returned from the sailing, I'm still
putting together my final thoughts about the cruise overall,
recommendations and thoughts about Antarctica and South America
cruising. I'm hoping to post that wrap-up by Saturday. But on to
the final chapter in the adventure and the trip home!

Men, it's time to guard your bank accounts. Ladies, listen up. If
you like leather goods, Buenos Aires is your city. There are many
shops, especially around Avenida Florida which is a downtown
pedestrian mall near the Marriott, which will custom make a fine coat
for you in a few hours. If you have both pre- and post-cruise stays
here, it's even better, as you can order before the cruise, then pick
up and pay for your completed items afterwards.

Shoes, handbags, belts and of course, coats and pants. Wonderful
quality, though you do have various levels of course. Many colors
and styles and you're likely to find something exactly for you.

I headed out the other direction from downtown to a manufacturer
called Gonzales, which is recommended by many sources. They will
pick you up from, and return you to, your hotel or ship
complimentarily in a nice sedan. Prices are fantastic for what you
get. Nice selection, though you'll find more on Avenida Florida,
albeit more at (Argentine) retail prices downtown.

Went in expecting mostly to look, and help my shopping companion to
purchase something (she was wanting at least one new purse), and came
out not only with her purchases, but with a new handbag for me (they
don't call them purses - they're handbags as a FYI for you), a
matching wallet and a gold leather evening bag. All for much less
than I'd have paid for one medium-quality bag here, and far less than
a single Brighton bag, for example.

The variety was staggering. Styles, leathers, textures... and that's
just in the handbags. This store on three levels is large and basic
in design. They're not putting money into flashy displays - you do
have to finger through the shelves to find what you're wanting. But
this is good for the prices. There is another, slightly smaller
competitor across the street, and I recommend you visit them first
(that is, unless you have Gonzales pick you up and bring you - at
that point go to Gonzales first, then go across the street and come
back). Excellent quality, but not as much selection. Having two
manufacturers right there by one another makes shopping extremely
easy. Do be aware that, as opposed to many of the shops on Avenida
Florida, there is no bargaining here. But the prices are so good you
won't mind too much.

The shoes are varied in design, but if you're looking for highest
fashion, this isn't the place. They're current in design and style,
but not as many high-style such as stilettos, for example. But they
do have a nice variety and some which match in leather design to
their purses, so can make for a great set, especially if you go for
the textured leather. There's one style which is prevalent
everywhere you look of a leather which looks like it's a checked
suede, with the checks embossed into the soft leather. This is one
signature look your friends will love and be envious of, and matching
shoes, be they ballet slipper style or high heels (or anything in
between) will also be a nice addition to your wardrobe. I'm
regretting a bit I didn't purchase a matching pair, and think I'll
get some next year when I go back.

It's also a perfect place to pick up gifts for those back home. The
wallets are nice quality and inexpensive. Some of the bags are cute
and fun and perfect for your teen or older daughters. Keep room in
your luggage as you're going to want it. Believe me, you'll want to
purchase some leather for yourself and gifts in Buenos Aires.

After the shopping adventure, it was back to the hotel for a bit of
food and a nap before catching the flights home. I'd arranged for a
half-day extension to the room, and it was well worth the cost not to
have to pack up and be out of the room by 11A when I didn't need to
leave for the airport until 7P. Gave me time to relax in the
afternoon (I could have instead opted to shop more, or sightsee, but
felt rest was more important as I was feeling the length of this trip
beginning to bear down on me), shower and pack in a more leisurely
manner. Do inquire with your hotel if this is possible for
you. Probably easier with some of the boutique properties,
especially if they're not full that night.

The trip to the airport was in full rush hour, with the sidewalks of
Buenos Aires packed with pedestrians and the streets filled with
commuters. There's a definite energy on the streets this time of
night, as people do their shopping, socializing and other activities
before dinner. It's simply electrifying.

The taxi was a bit of an adventure, as it was a private Remise
(private car) ordered by the hotel and I think it had some bad gas,
as we kept having hesitations and several cut-outs of the
engine. But made it in good time to the airport and started the
check-in process.

Buenos Aires airport requires several stops to get to the
gate. First you go through an oral screening process, consisting of
questions which are no longer asked in the US, but still are in other
areas of the world. If you've traveled to France or Germany you'll
be familiar with the litany: Have you packed the bags yourself, have
they been out of your control, did you accept any items from anyone,
any battery powered electronics in your bags, any liquids,"
etc. Nothing too unusual. Then you check in with your
airline. After getting your boarding pass, you proceed to the
Departure Tax window (which is another line) and pay your $18
departure tax. You may pay it in US dollars, Argentine Pesos, by
credit card or Euro. Then it's upstairs to the gates, where you go
through a check to make sure you've paid your departure tax, then
through immigration, and finally to security. Whew! At least
there's no silliness about needing to take off shoes, remove your
laptop or screen your liquids separately here.

The gate areas are fairly comfortable, clean and roomy. There is the
usual assortment of duty free shops, cafes and the like. If you've
fallen in love with the Dulche de Leche (a caramel-like substance)
now is your chance to get a few jars, but remember you'll have to put
them in your checked luggage when you retrieve them in the US before
rechecking - they're too big to be allowed in your carry-ons in the US.

The flights home were uneventful, even leaving about 15 minutes early
from Buenos Aires, getting through customs without a problem in DC
(though this is still one of the worst-designed luggage retrieval,
customs and luggage re-check airports in the nation, having an
early-morning flight did ease the difficulty in getting through as we
were ahead of the European flights which arrive early afternoon), and
a nice flight on to Denver. Just the way you want a trip to
end! Luggage arrived without a hitch, and the taxi ride home was
quick and comfortable.

Will put together my final thoughts on Iguazu Falls, Buenos Aires,
the Star Princess, and Antarctica in the next day or two. Thank you
to everyone who has been emailing or posting on Cruise Critic about
this blog. If you have questions you'd like to be addressed in the
final "chapter" just email me at amber@cruiseresource.com.

One more chapter to go!

Buenos Aires es Magnificio!

If you find me with a new address, don't be surprised. Buenos Aires
has absolutely captured my heart! From the warmth of the Portenos
(locals in Buenos Aires), to the quality (and price!) of the food,
this city has surpassed French Polynesia as perhaps my favorite place on earth.

To catch you up on the past two days, after arrival at the Esplendor
Palermo hotel in Palermo Soho, I will admit I succumbed to the local
habit of a siesta before going out for an absolutely incredible meal
at Sucre. Buenos Aires has a long history of Italian style and
preferences. As such, I searched out one of the fine Italian
restaurants for our first night here, and found Sucre. It didn't
disappoint in any way. From the quality of the service and food, to
the price, it's simply one of the finest Italian meals (in the true
Italian style, not Olive Garden quality) I've experienced. While
I've had more sublime meals in Italy itself, the price here, at about
$35/person, including wine, makes this a meal worth remembering and
repeating.

I arrived at about 8:30PM, unfashionably early by Buenos Aires standards,
but absolutely necessary in order to make a 10:30PM Tango show. We
were almost the first there, with the only other patrons also
Americanos. However, by 9:00PM, the restaurant was filling up. They
definitely accommodated Americans nicely, with an English menu, but
by no means was our experience an Anglicized one. As with most of
Buenos Aires, a few words of Spanish goes a long way toward improving
the experience.

Next up was Tango Carlos Gardel. Carlos Gardel is one of the
historical figures in Argentine Tango, as one of the premiere singers
in the 40s, 50s and 60s. His namesake theatre is beautiful. You can
have dinner there as well, and by all reports it's one of the best
combination dinners and shows, but I opted instead to book just the
show, arriving at 10:30PM. While you're seated at the back of the
theatre, the view is fabulous and comfortable, and you're served both
water and the wine (or other beverage) of your choice. The show is
extremely memorable, and went a long way toward touching my heart and
soul and connecting me firmly with this extraordinary city and its
people. I was afraid a Tango show would be too touristic and
kitschy, but as promised by several local experts, this show was more
authentic than several others (which are often described as
"Hollywood style") and gave me insight into the Argentine rhythm.

Consisting of 5 sets of dancers, 2 primary dancers, 2 singers and an
orchestra, this 90 minute show never lagged and was well paced
showing the progression of Tango from its origins early in the 20th
Century. I highly recommend it! Again, I have to compliment the
assistance of Wow! Argentina, as our reserved seats were smack dab in
the center.

Back to the hotel and caught the end of the Boca y River Football
match, one of the chief rivalries in Argentina soccer, with the
hotel staff. Again, the joys of a Boutique hotel experience.

After sleeping in, was off to San Telmo for the traditional Sunday
afternoon Antiques Market and street fair. Tango bands, tango street
dancers and lots and lots of stalls offering everything from
handicrafts to moderate value antiques were found. Mostly, it was
about experiencing what Portenos do on a Sunday afternoon rather than
purchasing.

On the way I passed the Recoletto crafts fair. Next time, if I'm
here on a Saturday or Sunday, I'll head back there. Looked interesting!

Back to Palermo for a lunch experience of sushi, much assisted by a
friendly couple at the table next door who filled in my gaps in
knowledge of Spanish food terms and ordering correctly. This is
exactly the joy of experiencing a city as a traveler, rather than a
tourist. Again, the restaurant staff spoke not a word of English,
but communication was easily achieved and a lovely, quality, light
lunch at an affordable price was obtained.

Tonight was the classic Argentine experience of a Parilla (pronounced
Parisha as the Argentines admittedly speak Spanish their own way and
lla is not "ya", but "sha"), or grill house at La Cabrera, one of the
highest rated steak houses in the city. Bring your appetite, as the
beef is amazing, and the side dishes more than ample. I started with
an appetizer of Proveleta (fried provolone with herbs - sounds odd
but is amazing), a bottle of local Malbec (red) wine and sparkling
water. The waiter provided recommendations easily, but in
Spanish. Followed up by an enormous portion of Bife de Chorizo
(sirloin strip) and finished with Espresso and a glass of Proseco
(Italian sparkling wine), the meal was perfect and just over
$40/person. Have to love this city! The sirloin itself was about
$15, and a smaller portion (which I recommend, as the full size is
simply too much) was only $12. See why I could move here?

The table next to us was an American college group on an experience
for a philosophy course. They seemed just as impressed and
overwhelmed by the food (and quantity!) as did I. This restaurant
would also be perfect for just an appetizer of the Proveleta and a
cold antipasto plate or salad - more than filling!

Back to the hotel much "lubricated" on Argentine wine, and off to bed
soon. But sharing this joy and experience while still in the moment
is important to your understanding of why you want to spend at least
a couple nights here pre- or post-cruise and get out into the neighborhoods.

Tomorrow it's off to the Leather Markets, a short rest at the hotel,
then out to the airport for a late night flight. Most international
flights to the US and Canada leave very late at night, so if staying
at a smaller hotel such as this, it's worth it to arrange a half day
room if possible to allow you to shower and rest before leaving for
the airport. It all depends on availability, but will make the
flight home more comfortable being fresh and rested after a day of
shopping. It's costing me about $80, but I'd say that's worth
it. You may choose otherwise, and most hotels are happy to store
your luggage for you from their regular check-out time until you
leave for the airport. Just another factor to consider as you make
your plans for Buenos Aires.

Probably won't be in touch again until I arrive home to Denver and
give you the final details, then one last post in this series on last
thoughts, on the ship, itinerary and other considerations when
planning a journey like this.

Of course, if you don't hear from me for a few extra days with the
wrap-up, don't worry - I'm likely just overwhelmed with clients who
have been awaiting my return. Of course, it may be possible I simply
couldn't bear to board the flight and instead am investigating
long-term rentals in Buenos Aires and how to forward my toll-free
line down here!

Things Always Change

You've probably figured out by now that I'm a rather thorough
planner. Just my nature. However, for me planning isn't about
having a rigid schedule, but instead feeling comfortable with the
choices I've made, along with knowing the other options when the
inevitable glitches occur. With travel, it's not if something
unexpected happens, but when and how often. Planning can minimize
their occurrence, and also the impact.

Yesterday was Montevideo. Another glorious day, mid 70s, fair with a
bit of wind (at least a bit at the start, but we'll get to
that). Unfortunately, all night long I'd had a bad night, feeling
like I was catching something, and when I awakened, felt I would be
far better off and wiser to stay on board rather than go on my
planned tour. Phooey! However, the rest of the group went on to the
excursion, a City Tour and Vineyard Visit booked independently
through Port Compass. The information here is based on what they
told me when they returned.

The tour left at 8:30AM, which was perfect. Not immediately after
docking, but still early enough that on the City Tour portion, they
beat all the Princess (and Oceania) busses to the locales and had
them to themselves. The group was 10 people, all from
Princess. After the very informative City Tour with a guide they all
adored, they headed out to a fairly new vineyard not too far from
town. The reports were of excellent, though young wine, nice short
tour, and lots of tasting (and of course opportunity to purchase).

They returned to the ship around 2:30PM, with plenty of time to head
back into town for shopping or further visiting if they wanted to
after their return. The evaluation of the tour was uniformly
positive with glowing references, and I'm looking forward to being
able to take it next year when I return.

Last night onboard the ship. Always melancholy, but after 16 nights
of such a monumental, emotional trip, there's also some anticipation
to be starting the homeward process. Okay, and a bit of relief at
leaving Princess beds behind. Even with an egg crate topper, these
are still some of the hardest beds around. Sorry, Princess, but you
really need to pay attention to what your sister companies have done
with their bedding.

There were the inevitable lines to pick up the trip DVDs (which
turned out FABULOUSLY! For those of you on the February sailing,
don't even wait, just go ahead and order yours immediately), and
those last night formal pictures, etc.

Speaking of pictures, there's one truly outstanding photographer
onboard. If you can, go to him for your photos. He is in his early
20s, dark curly hair and a bit of a beard. His Latin name suddenly
escapes me, but he's the only one who even comes close to matching
that description. Also, the tall thin blonde woman with the short
hair. She moves with the grace of a cat and she also does an
excellent job of making sure you get the best results.

Because of the very tight customs rules in Buenos Aires, all luggage
is requested to be out by 10PM, and their preference and strong
request is that the majority be out around 5:30PM. They're serious
about this. No waiting until 1-2AM on this itinerary. So be
forewarned, you may want to pack at least your warmer layers on the
last sea day, as you won't have much time between your return in
Montevideo and the last dinner.

Now about the real flexibility necessity. We had amazing weather the
entire sailing, but our last two ports, Punta Arenas and Montevideo,
along with this morning trying to disembark in Buenos Aires, the wind
kept trying to play tricks on us.

Star Princess is an extremely tall ship, and in higher winds,
depending on their direction, she does have an enormous sail effect,
getting blown about a bit, even when the seas aren't terribly
bad. If the wind comes from a particular quarter, it can play
havoc. In Punta Arenas, it was making it difficult to raise the last
two tenders, requiring assistance from a local tug. As we departed
Montevideo, Gale Force winds keeled us over a bit probably about 15
degrees off vertical plane. Nothing where you got panicked, but
definitely got your attention especially if you were standing up. A
few items slid around on tables and such, but nothing serious, and we
righted ourselves immediately, just as she's designed to do. A few
more lesser rolls and we got out of the wind and turned a bit to
avoid further unusual tilting.

This morning as we came up the river into Buenos Aires, the winds
tried to get us again. We had to anchor downstream a bit for a few
hours. Wow, the sunrise this morning was spectacular outside my window!

At 7AM (when we were actually due to arrive in Buenos Aires), there
were Force 8 winds whipping around, and because of the narrow
channel, the Captain came on and said he and Pilot felt it would be
safer to remain at anchor until they died down. About 7:30, the
winds finally calmed, and we proceeded up river again, arriving at
our berth a little over 3 hours late at 10:15AM.

Disembarkation of a ship this size is always a bit time consuming,
but when you have this type of delay, and an entirely manual system
of luggage unloading, it can take a bit of patience. Fortunately for
most, flights to the US and Canada generally leave late in the
evening, and most people on those flights had Princess tours or were
going to the courtesy hotel, so no problem there, just a bit of a
delay. Some flights which connect in Latin American countries, such
as Mexico, leave mid-afternoon, but even then the passengers were in
pretty good shape. The Purser's office worked hard to help everyone
get taken care of, even pro-actively calling some passengers. I'd
say that portion of it was extremely well handled.

We were in one of the last groups to disembark, as I'm staying 2 more
nights in Buenos Aires to enjoy this wonderful, beautiful city. Once
off the ship at about noon, it was another 45 minutes before our
luggage was unloaded and in the hall. A bit unorganized, but as the
majority of passengers' luggage had been taken directly to
post-cruise hotels or the airport, it wasn't unmanageable. But
again, patience is the key.

I had arranged a private vehicle to pick me up and transfer me to my
hotel in the Palermo Soho area of Buenos Aires. I'd been concerned
about the taxi situation with three ships disembarking at the same
time. Since we were delayed, I think it would have been okay to have
the taxi, but it was such a relief to have the driver awaiting me
outside the luggage hall. A very pleasant driver arranged by WOW!
Argentina travel agency again, the same agency which had taken care
of my arrangements (and changes necessitated by the flight
cancellation at the beginning of this trip) up to Iguazu Falls. When
they learned about the ship delay, they called my cell phone to
inform me that they'd arranged for the driver to pick me up later,
though he still had to wait a bit before we got through
disembarkation. Let me tell you, I'm truly impressed with the
service from this local company, and will be referring them in the
future for this type of local arrangement. They take care of their
customers and are great for the local aspects. While I am a travel
agent, my job isn't to try to book every little detail for my clients
myself; it's sometimes better to know when to hand off the
arrangements to be co-op arranged with a local expert. This is one
such case. It would have been much more stress this morning trying
to contact a private driver without their assistance. And yes, even
on a weekend they're available and pleasant.

The Palermo Soho neighborhood is charming. Tree-lined residential
streets with boutique hotels scattered on the blocks. A few blocks
away is a trendy restaurant and shopping area I'm looking forward to
checking out. I'm staying at the Esplendor Palermo, part of a small
chain of hotels in Buenos Aires. This one just opened up about 3
months ago and has that "new hotel" smell to it. My room is large
and comfortable, with a lovely view out to the trees and across the
rooftops (with several rooftop gardens). Very nice! The bathroom
arrangement is a bit quirky, but that's part of the fun of staying in
Boutique hotels. It's nice to spend the pre-cruise downtown (though
I didn't get as much time there as expected due to the flight
cancellation) and post-cruise somewhere a bit different to get the
flavor of this city.

After visiting the ATM for some more Argentine Pesos (I always
recommend this as the best way to get cash in almost every country),
had lunch at a very locals' pizza parlor on the way back to the
hotel. Not a word of English spoken by any of the staff, nor on the
menu. Fabulous! It was deep dish pizza at its best. Simple,
perfectly done, yummy. Got a bit of assistance from a couple other
patrons in deciphering the menu (young people are usually good
candidates to ask if they speak English), and the rest of the process
was easy. Universal point and smile always works well. The
restaurant has been around since 1942, and is obviously a very
popular lunch place with the neighborhood. I couldn't have chosen better.

Tonight it's off to Tango Carlos Gardel, one of the well-established
and revered tango shows in Buenos Aires. Opted for just the show,
not dinner, so will eat unfashionably early (or extremely late) as
the show starts at 9.

I can't sign off for today without a quick comment about the
Champagne Waterfall on the final formal night. In my past
experiences with Princess, this has been a rather boring affair, just
watching everyone get their picture taken pouring the champagne into
the glasses and awaiting your glass of the bubbly to be brought
around. In an example of the excellent Cruise Director staff
onboard, this turned out to be one of the highlights of the
cruise. They had the most popular entertainer onboard, Maurizio,
playing the piano while they assembled the glass pyramid, then spun
dance tunes as soon as the champagne started flowing. Three decks of
dance party. There were several of the wait staff dancing on the
stairs and the Cruise Director staff were front and center dancing up
a storm to keep us all going.

Several nights this cruise the atrium and the upper decks surrounding
it turned into quite the lively late night scene. Basically, any
time Maurizio played there, the dancing crowd arrived and had a
wonderful time. I do hope this is something Princess is adopting
fleet-wide, as it makes the Champagne Waterfall the signature event
of the cruise it's intended to be, instead of something which
visually is stunning and is an assembling feat on a moving ship, but
otherwise is usually rather ho hum. Well done!

Will report tomorrow on the Tango and Sunday at the antiques market
in San Telmo. We're winding down, but still not home yet. Keep reading!

Sea Days - And a 2009 Adventure?

Three lovely sea days. Time to catch up, experience a bit more of the ship, and relax. They've been wonderful. Yesterday dawned a bit foggy, and stayed that way most of the day into evening, but it didn't lessen one of my favorite sights - a full moon at sea. Today is clear, warming and calm. I know I keep repeating myself, but the weather we've experienced has been incredible. We've truly been blessed.

I just looked outside my window and saw at least a half dozen Albatross of different species surrounding the ship. Lovely!

The nice weather has followed us, but definitely hasn't been universal down here. From Punta Arenas, an excursion is offered through Princess for a flight to and landing in Antarctica. Unfortunately, they were unable to go as the weather at the station they were heading to was snowy, socked in and windy. According to the shore excursion lecturer, Joe May, that's the case about 80% of the time. On average, only one Princess flight during the season actually makes it.

I'd researched doing a similar flight on my own (as the Princess cost as you can imagine is rather steep) and my research revealed the same issue - they are cancelled outright about 50% of the time, and when flights are able to take off, a good portion of the time they're turned back before they reach Antarctica. If they are fortunate enough to land, many times their return to Chile is delayed or diverted to another airport. In other words, a really bad option to book independently unless you're on a land vacation and have several days in which to make the attempt. This is the perfect example of an excursion which should be booked through the cruise line.

The cost was about $2,400/person, and if it is cancelled, there is a $200 penalty as there are non-refundable costs associated with chartering the flight. They do offer this excursion on all their South American sailings which go to Punta Arenas, not just those with the Antarctica itinerary as we had, and it sells out almost immediately. If you're interested in it, watch the Princess Cruise Personalizer daily when you get to about 4 months before sailing, as you'll need to book it within a day or two of its release.

Speaking of shore excursions, I believe I mentioned that those who waited to book onboard were somewhat disappointed in the remaining selection. Because of the limited availability of vendors in ports such as Port Stanley specifically, they were truly sold out through pre-sales, either online at the Personalizer or through mailed or faxed requests. If you don't already utilize online resources and you prefer to book shore excursions through the ship, it's time to get familiar with them, and not only with Princess. More and more, the cruise lines will be moving to this medium, and people waiting to book onboard will be extremely disappointed. If you're reading this blog, you're somewhat computer comfortable, and should have no problem with taking care of your excursion bookings in this manner. Especially with Princess, it's risk-free, as you're not charged for the excursions until you board, so you can feel free to book a couple excursions in each port immediately when they become available, then take a bit of time to decide which you really want. Better to book and cancel later than to be disappointed. If you cancel, you'll make someone on the wait list very happy, so no harm, no foul.

But one factor on this ship which made the lack of Princess excursions easier was our port lecturer, Joe May. He's sailed around South America 108 times, visiting the ports many, many times. While he's not as familiar with Antarctica, only having crossed Drake Channel 8 times, including the 2 on this sailing, that's what we had another lecturer to help us with.

Many times on a cruise, you'll have someone extremely familiar with the ports, but they're either doing just shopping lectures or pushing the ship excursions. Not in this case. In each port, he's given options if you wanted to go into town on your own, or see the penguins on your own, etc. He provided a restaurant recommendation for me in Ushuaia (unfortunately that particular restaurant was closed since it was Sunday, but the menu looked terrific), and was on hand at the shore excursions desk for any questions people had. I usually ignore the port lectures because of the shopping push for the recommended stores, but they were nothing like that on this sailing and I looked forward to them. Kudos to Princess for changing the style of these lectures and working with someone the quality of Joe May.

As good as Joe was, he was overshadowed by two other people onboard providing information to us throughout the cruise - Ice Captain Bob Parsons and Antarctica and Penguin researcher, Dr. Bernard Stonehouse. First Captain Parsons. He's a retired Coast Guard captain who worked on ice breakers, even working on their design. He's worked in the Great Lakes, Alaska, Antarctica and other areas. He spoke about navigational issues through ice, the composition of the ice (a really great lecture entitled "Ice is Nice") including how it's formed, breaks off, and its "life" including movement in the water. As I mentioned before, I felt very comfortable with him aiding Captain Pickford when we were in the vicinity of ice. Together they handled this ship beautifully and in ways I'd not have expected they could.

But the highlight was the information given in lectures, and when we were in Antarctica itself, by Dr. Bernard Stonehouse. Originally a meteorologist, a plane crash in Antarctica many decades ago led to his becoming a penguin and Antarctic expert and researcher. I believe I mentioned he discovered the 4th known colony of Emperor penguins, and he as found several other colonies over the years. His background is fascinating, and his delivery style is charming, understandable and amusing. Currently associated with Oxford University, he has the style of a British lecturer which at first seems a bit slow and halting, but as you get familiar with it is extremely effective.

Speaking almost continually when we were in the major areas of Antarctica, giving commentary about what we were seeing (as were Joe May or Captain Parsons when appropriate), he educated us about a variety of topics to help us understand what we were seeing when we were seeing it, such as the Shackleton history when we sailed around Elephant Island and saw their landing and wintering site, information about the Arctowski base when we visited them, educating us about the glaciers and geology of the beauty we observed when sailing in Gerlache Strait and Neumeyer Channel, and alerting us to penguin, whale, dolphin, bird, seal and other sightings as we sailed along. This commentary was broadcast on the open decks and available as well on the cabin television, but was not in the public areas of the ship so if you weren't interested, you weren't accosted by it. Personally, I wish they had also broadcast in areas such as the dining room and buffet at lunch, but that's me.

In addition to the commentary, almost every day he also had a lecture which complimented the information he'd touched on while we were viewing, or educated us in aspects of Antarctica such as ice research, penguin colonies and life, and even his days as a dog sledger across the ice fields. Fascinating!

I know many people looking at this itinerary, with a full week of sailing between the Falklands and our next landing in Ushuaia, are concerned they might be bored. I mean, how many ice bergs can you look at and be interested? The twice daily lectures, plus the running commentary, made the days sailing very different than a typical day at sea. If you love natural beauty, are interested in aquatic or air critters such as those found in Antarctica, or simply want to continue to learn about an area of the world which is largely forgotten in mainstream exploration, you'll want to take this cruise. On a ship such as Star Princess, it is extremely comfortable, but you do absolutely get an Antarctic experience, even though you don't step foot on the Continent. It's simply amazing.

To give you an idea of the daily lectures, from the various sources, here was the line up, in order of when they were presented. All of them were under the heading of Scholarship@Sea Enrichment Lectures:

Dr. Bernard Stonehouse - Where are we going, what will we see?
Dr. Bernard Stonehouse - The Falkland Islands: The land and the people
Dr. Bernard Stonehouse - Southern Oceans Wildlife
Dr. Bernard Stonehouse - Who Owns Antarctica? (And who wants it anyway?!)
Capt. Bob Parsons, Joe May, Senior First Officer Tim Wingate - Antarctic Navigation (overview of anticipated routes, maps, history of Antarctic explorers)
Dr. Bernard Stonehouse - My friends the penguins
Dr. Bernard Stonehouse - The Shackleton Story
Dr. Bernard Stonehouse and Capt. Bob Parsons - All About Ice - Ice is Nice. Sea ice, and the record of history in glaciers and icecaps.
Dr. Bob Parsons - Antarctic cruising, scientific support & US Coast Guard activities
First Officer Mario Tani - Behind the Scenes of the Navigational Bridge
Dr. Bernard Stonehouse, Capt. Bob Parsons and Joe May - Where did we go, what did we see?

Of course, there were the compliment of normal activities onboard as well, and other Scholarship@Sea offerings such as ceramics, bridge play and others. I've talked before about the excellent computer classes offered. Social groups met onboard every day, with the normal service clubs, Friends of Bill, Rainbow GLBT/Friends of Dorothy and similar, along with arranged get-togethers for photographers, scrapbookers, and bird watchers were particularly active, and the cruise director staff was very open to putting together ad-hoc get togethers when requested. Today I watched a Pacific Rim DVD put together from a Sapphire Princess sailing late in 2007.

A special note to all my solo travelers. This sailing was extremely solo friendly, with get-togethers EVERY night at 7:00PM, along with designated nights up in Skywalkers and other activities. I've never seen such support for solos on a mainstream line, especially since there weren't any gentlemen hosts (Princess doesn't provide them). This is absolutely a sailing which would be appropriate for solos, and don't forget that Princess offers reduced single supplements for inside and oceanview cabins.

The passengers have been diverse, and extremely interesting as a whole. The overall age was on the younger side for this length of sailing. Many, many people in their 40s and 50s, though the older set were also well represented. While there were a few new cruisers onboard, with only a couple cruises under their belt who were attracted mostly by the adventure, most were pretty well traveled overall, and often frequent cruisers. In fact, there were so many past passengers they had to have the Captain's Circle party held two different nights! Have had so many fascinating conversations during lunch, in the lounges, and out on deck while sailing. Everyone onboard has a bit of the adventurer at heart, from those like me who regularly explore the unusual, to those who were in wheelchairs, scooters or on oxygen, and it's been a fabulous experience for all.

Okay, think it's probably time to let out a little secret I've been holding back. Was going to wait until the end of this saga, once we had returned from the post-cruise stay in Buenos Aires so you had the entire picture, but I think now is the time to let the penguin out of the bag so to speak. If you've been following this journey and thought you'd love to do this itinerary and are fascinated with what we've seen, another agent and I have arranged for group space on next year's January 17, 2009 Star Princess Antarctic sailing. And yes, we will be escorting the group personally. Next year's itinerary is slightly different in that instead of it being a round trip from Buenos Aires, it will instead disembark in Valparaiso Chile, the port for Santiago, opening up post-cruise opportunities there.

This means not only will you have my regular assistance in booking and planning your cruise and giving you information on the ports, but I'll be assisting in arranging private excursions in the ports, going with you on some of the options (of course I can't be everywhere at once), joining you on deck when in the viewing areas and assisting in explaining what we're seeing, pointing out interesting sites, giving you my super-secret viewing areas on the ship, and even if desired some photographic and Photoshop assistance, not to mention the advantage that my associate, Susan Combs, will also be co-leader for this group so you'll be well taken care of throughout the journey. While I can't promise weather like I experienced this year (the experts have said they've not had this many days of this good weather on a single sailing - and the experience of calm both ways on Drake Passage, getting in effect "Drake Lake" both ways is almost unheard of), I can promise excitement, adventure and PENGUINS!

I'll also be arranging pre-cruise for those interested in Buenos Aires or Iguazu Falls (I'll be going up to the Falls again) and post-cruise in the Santiago area, probably going to an Estancia (ranch) and/or vineyards in the area. Other options pre-cruise also include an Estancia, Tango show and all the fun and excitement of Buenos Aires. You can also opt for the pre-cruise options through Princess, of which I've received nothing but praise from the passengers who opted for it, which consists of arrival in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, flight up to Iguazu Falls, stay there, then flight down to Buenos Aires and another two nights there. Excellent option.

While I'll not be back in the US until the 29th, and not fully back in the office until January 30, if you're interested in this group, go ahead and contact me now. I can provide pricing for you and hold a cabin. The most popular cabin options are already being booked for next year, so now is the time to put in your request and secure the cabin which will give you the best experience!

Tonight is the last formal night onboard, and tomorrow is our final port - Montevideo, Uruguay. With all the rush of a port day, packing and disembarkation, you won't hear from me again until at the earliest late Saturday night after the tango show in Buenos Aires.

This blog isn't yet over for this sailing, as I'll report after Uruguay and in Buenos Aires and of course any adventures and final thoughts from the trip home. Hope you keep reading!

No Good Stories, Only Good Weather and Good Penguins

There's so much I wish I could tell you. I wish I could tell you about 80 foot waves over the bow in Drake Passage and around Cape Horn... but I can't. You'd ask for the pictures, and my pictures of Cape Horn show mostly flat calm. I had to work to find some breaking waves even at the juncture of the Atlantic and the Pacific.

I wish I could tell you about the blustery weather in Ushuaia with cold wind, whipped seas in Beagle Channel and a bucking ride in a catamaran. But again, I know you'd see my pictures which would prove me wrong.

So instead, my blog for Drake Passage and Cape Horn is going to be about the amazing calm we experienced. While the days have been a bit grey, we've had sun each day, and the seas have been positively calm. Slight rolling a bit last night, but I've felt far worse on a clear day in the Caribbean.

Felt a bit of history as we rounded Cape Horn. There's a beautiful sculpture of an albatross there on the headland which symbolizes all those hearty mariners of yonder year who died on crossings in far less favorable conditions than what we experienced. This is a small Chilean base which is truly just an outpost. Notice the Chilean flag. No, I wasn't actually in Texas.

The pilot boat was actually a small boat from the Chilean Navy:

As we approached the crossing from the Atlantic to the Pacific, we saw the beautiful Twin Towers, two rock formations which, in the winds of up to 200mph which do occur here (just not during this sailing), could be extremely treacherous. They mark the delineation between the two oceans:

Absolute gorgeousness in Ushuaia, the Southernmost City in the World, and our Catamaran ride in Beagle Channel. HIGHLY recommended. You've probably been wondering where all the other winged birds are, as I've only concentrated heretofore on the flippered birds (PENGUINS!). Today, I promise you'll get more birds. We have sighted several varieties of Albatross and Petrels on the sailing, but not being a birder, I'm not the best to bring those images to you.

Instead, today, when we arrived in Ushuaia, we boarded a large catamaran right at the pier (arranged privately, though Princess offers a similar excursion at a bit higher price on a larger boat) and headed out into the Beagle Channel for some scenic cruising.

First up was a colony of Black and White Cormorants (which, upon first sighting after days of penguin watching, look remarkably like penguins... until they start to fly off):


On the other side of the island were some seals resting (and youngsters sparring).

Next we went to a small island with Black Cormorants:

I've only ever seen cormorants underwater when they're diving for fish. Seeing their colonies was a treat! Especially with the interactions between them.

Next was a lighthouse rock grouping, with cormorants, South American Terns (very similar to Arctic Terns) and Seals. This is the farthest south lighthouse in the South American continent:

The seal colony was presided over by a large Beachmaster (the dominant male):

There were three other males who were obviously trying to work their way up so they could master the harem. Couldn't help but think that this rock, with all these wannabe Beachmasters was the Ushuaian version of MIT - Masters in Training. ::: cue moans and groans now :::

Finally, on the way back, we got several lovely pictures of Ushuaia itself. It's quite the modern city, though most of the buildings have a frontier town feeling. There was, however, one large, white modern building in the center:

Ooops, sorry, that's the Star Princess stern.

You must forgive my humor this afternoon. We had a lovely King Crab orgy with fabulous Argentinian wine for lunch and the wine has loosened my fingers a bit. The fine Sauvignon Blanc wine is from this Patagonian Region, and at the restaurant came to about $11 per bottle, and at the wine store was only about $7. While Chilean wine gets most of the attention, or the Argentinean Malbecs (red wine), don't overlook the Argentine whites, too. Wonderful, wonderful wine which complimented the crab soup and crab entree (which was actually an appetizer, but was more than plenty with the soup). All crab, all the time. All told, including wine, the meal came to about $30/person. Yes, for crab and we were all stuffed. Didn't I tell you the prices are wonderful down here?

Afterwards, a bit of shopping around town (had to get some wine and chocolate to make hot chocolate with later), then back to the ship.

The day ended up to be quite warm and lovely. The sun broke through around 1PM, and we were in the 60s for temperature, with virtually no wind. Truly couldn't ask for better. The local residents were out in force, enjoying a day so beautiful they said they only get a handful this good per year. Had it not been a weekend, they said they'd have taken off anyway to enjoy the day.

Sailing away from Ushuaia, we cruised up through the Beagle Channel, which is a narrow channel lined with glaciers. Incredible beauty surrounded us. Whilst at dinner, we spied one glacier with a large waterfall running from beneath it. Unfortunately, since it was during dinner, no pictures of that one. Suffice to say this channel alone was as beautiful as any of the scenery in Alaska or the Norwegian Fjords.

The next morning arrived a bit gray, with diminishing light showers, but with terrific anticipation, as it meant more... PENGUINS! We arrived in Punta Arenas on time at 7:00AM, and you know I was on the first tender ashore.

There are two different options from Punta Arenas to see the penguins. The first is Otway Sound, a colony of about 10,000 Magellanic penguins. It's about a one hour drive from the port, and is easily accessible, even possible for those in wheelchairs (you can even rent one on site). The second choice is the one I'd originally opted to take, Magdalena Island, but unfortunately it was cancelled due to an unexpected dry dock of the ferry. That is about a 90 minute ferry ride to another island, with a lighthouse, also covered by a Magellanic penguin colony. It is also available privately by riding on rigid inflatables (zodiacs), but because of the uncertainty of the weather, and the tendency toward winds and rough rides in the channel, we decided not to risk the zodiac ride. Turned out to be a good decision.

Once ashore, there is a nice, comfortable terminal from where you can catch a taxi or other tour offerings. A taxi to Otway Sound is about $110 (US) and the taxis can easily hold 3 people, or 4 if you're good friends and not too large. I highly recommend this option. It's quick, easy, and you can negotiate as much time at the colony as you wish. There will be an additional charge for extra time, but if you're like me, and more time with the penguins is better, then the standard 1 hour to navigate the over 1 mile circuit just isn't enough.

Our driver, Jose, spoke limited English, but between his fair English and my very limited Spanish, we made ourselves understood. He offered to stop if we wanted some water or snacks, but we headed straight to the colony.

Driving through part of Punta Arenas, it's clear this city is a true city, clean and modern but on a scale appropriate to being still on the edge of the frontier. It was an extremely important city for shipping prior to the opening of the Panama Canal in 1912, and has rebuilt itself in recent times primarily based on natural resources and tourism.

If you're able to be on the first tender ashore (legitimately by being Elite with Princess as I was, or by just knowing where and when to go), you can have an experience like I did of being at the colony totally alone for a period of time. We arrived about 30 minutes before the first of Princess' tour busses, and had the area totally to ourselves for that time. I meandered down the path, enjoying the quiet and calm, and had the small birds, rabbits and of course PENGUINS all to myself. Once the groups arrived, there was no more sign of some of the smaller, more skitterish birds (they looked like chickadees), or the rabbits.

Just because you're expecting penguin pictures, here's one of the small bird:

If you don't want to be out and about quite so early, and your time in port allows, the other excellent option would be to still take a taxi, but look to see when the Princess excursions leave. The main groups are early in the morning. If you wait until about 30-45 minutes after the last of the main groups arrive, by the time you get to the colony, they'll be finishing up their limited time and be leaving, and you'll have the paths and overlooks more to yourself without the crowds.

Be prepared, as this site is reportedly always windy, sometimes extremely so, which makes the mile-long walk along the wooden walkway chilly and a bit more challenging than you'd think otherwise. Of course, being that we had near miraculous and unprecedented weather this entire cruise, it was mild during this visit. Overcast for the most part, though getting sunny later in the day, the winds were light. But a windbreaker and perhaps a sweater are welcome here. Don't forget even when overcast, there is still a high likelihood of sunburn due to the thin ozone, so use that SPF. I didn't find gloves necessary here, but did wear a hat.

As I mentioned before, the Magellanic penguins nest in burrows they dig out of the ground or in the hillsides. They actually dig using their beaks and flippers. In the distance, saw one expanding his nest and he was throwing up quite the cloud of dirt!

This site has a lot of greenery, so you have to look closely sometimes to see the penguins nesting in their burrows. Where's Penguiney?:

Every morning or afternoon, one parent makes the trek down the well-worn tracks to the sea to go fishing, coming back in the afternoon or evening. Am I the only one who is humming "hi ho, hi ho, it's off to fish we go" when looking at this picture?

The Magellanic penguins are also closely related to the Jackass penguins found in South Africa. At least listening to them call I have to believe so. If I get a chance, I'll ask our naturalist, as he is a true penguin expert, having discovered the 4th known Emperor colony back in the 1940s. But back to the sound they make. It's a braying very close to a donkey's, not only in the tone, but also the style. Funny to listen to and watch. You can see one getting ready to bray as they start panting a bit, opening their beaks, then they throw back their head and let loose. They definitely use their diaphragms like any good singer, taking deep breaths you can see, and supporting their call fully. Let me tell you, they really get into it. Not entirely sure what they're signifying when they call, be it hunger, territory or just letting loose, but it doesn't seem to be calling back and forth between them. It's a bit more solitary than that, and others around don't seem to take much attention:

Though at times, you'd have 2 or more in a group who decided to call together:

Penguins are highly social birds. They seem to prefer to walk together from their nesting areas to the beach and water, they play with each other on the water, they are curious about one another, and groom one another, both to rid themselves of tics, but also to help each other moult off the old feathers. Several times in watching the beach group, it looked like a rugby scrum was forming, with the penguins forming a tight group that moved back and forth together:

Other times, there were small groups which seemed to be in intense conversation with their heads together. You have to wonder what strategy they're discussing:

These two seemed to be happy just standing flipper in flipper:

They also at times seem curious about us, though they hesitated to cross under bridges while people were on them, and we were encouraged not to stand on the bridges for that reason:

Interestingly, even though social, they're also territorial. These 5 kings of the rock did not want to allow any other penguins to join them up on their perch:

I believe most of the penguins on the beach were juveniles who were awaiting the return of their parents. While some had most of their adult feathering, and could go into the water, these weren't swimming out, but only swimming around the shallows a bit. Others were obviously in full moult from their juvenile fluff to adult feathers:

Many were extremely patient while waiting, not moving in the least the entire time I watched:

Or simply finding a comfy bed on the kelp washed up on the beach in which to take a nap:

Other times, they were playing with one another, sometimes hide-and-seek in a hollow log, other times splashing one another in the water:

These juveniles could go into the water, but since their feathers weren't fully in, going out to sea to fish for themselves wasn't possible, as they don't have enough protection and waterproofing yet. But they sure did like the water!

Several times there were what appeared to be one adult and a juvenile together near their burrow:

Just like the other species we've observed, there's a close bond between parent and child:

Okay, enough about penguins. Hope I've not taxed your patience about them too much.

Around Punta Arenas, there are a number of other options which are also available if you aren't a penguin fanatic as I am. There are the wild llamas which can be seen (they're smaller and more sturdy than the ones you're used to). There's a beautiful glacier which you can hike by riding a chair lift, overlooking the Straits of Magellan. The town itself offers museums, focusing on the history of Patagonia, the local Indians and Magellan, and the Town Square is quite scenic, featuring a large statue of Magellan, but surrounded by images of the native Indians he found here. It's said if you rub the toe of the statue, it will ensure you return. Actually, the tale is if you kiss the toe you'll return, but rubbing seems to be more sanitarily correct these days.

Surrounding the square, and in many other areas, are a wealth of local handicrafts, many made on site using traditional methods. I saw many people coming back to the ship laden with bags from town.

Because of the changeable weather and often 200 kph winds here, be aware the tender ride can get a bit tricky. While smaller ships can dock in town, the Star Princess must tender a bit off. Middle of the afternoon, there were storm force 10 winds for a time, and the seas were buckling and a few passengers had a pretty bumpy ride. They did cease tender operations for a bit before resuming, and we had quite a tricky time getting the last two tenders aboard, needing the assistance of a tug boat to turn us around so they could be raised. But we were safely away after about an hours' delay, sailing out of the Straits toward Argentina.

We have three wonderful sea days ahead, before our next port in Montevideo on the 25th. Today dawned absolutely clear and calm, and it's been a wonderful day onboard the ship with excellent presentation lectures and the typical activities onboard. I tend to work on this blog and pictures in the area where the computer classes have been held, and she's been excellent with a broad range of topics, from basic to more advanced such as PowerPoint presentations.

I will post again before we arrive in Montevideo, giving more information about the ship itself, background on the quality of the lecturers, and other information. Again, email me if you have something you'd like me to address.

By the way, I've gotten several questions about my photographic equipment. I'm using a Canon DSLR camera (400D), and the lenses I've used for the images I've posted are a Sigma 10-20mm wide angle, Sigma 18-200mm OS zoom, and a Canon 100-400mm L super telephoto. I will admit that I've taken literally thousands of images on this trip, with only a few represented here. In areas where I was trying to get the jumping penguins in the water, I was lucky to get 1 in 4 images which even had penguins in the shot, but as I was using continual shooting, it gave me much better likelihood of getting the shot I wanted. In Otway Sound, I took 1497 images (no, that's not a typo) during the 3 hours I was there, and have a very high "keeper" rate with a lot of really fun stories told through them.

There will be many other images posted after I return and have time to go through and convert them from RAW and post them to my photographic web site,

http://www.amberwavesphotography.com./Give me probably a month or so to get them all up, but I'll try to post a few each week as I work on them.

If anyone has questions about any of these pictures, how I got them, or want advise on camera equipment for this type of trip, or even where to rent lenses they may not have (I rented the 100-400mm for example), drop me an email. I'm happy to help!

And of course, all the images are copyrighted. Please do not use them outside this blog/review without permission or attribution.

Watch for my next post tomorrow or Thursday!

The Splendor is Overwhelming

My apologies for the gap in posting. Simply put, the beauty and splendor of Antarctica was overwhelming and exhausting. Awakening early so as to not miss a moment of the magnificence, not going to bed until after sunset (which was between 11PM to midnight), it quite wore me out. But it was so worth it!

First, a few pictures from the morning of the last post. The colors of the sunrise against the bergs:

First Light:


Morning brightens:

Amazing sky:
But then the weather and ice close in - so much ice:


The wind whips up:


The mist and the ice:


A visit to Esperanza Station will have to wait for another time, as the ice and wind simply would not let us through.

We then proceeded to Arctowski Station, a Polish Research Center in a beautiful sound:

Some of the scientists come out to speak to us (and enjoy some fresh food and company onboard for a bit of time):

This base is a year-round operation, though not all the researchers stay through winter. Right now, there are 3 women who have come for the summer, but who will depart before winter closes in. 5 of the men stay year round, monitoring the large Gentoo and Adelie penguin colonies nearby, and conducting other research as well.

While the men were onboard, a helicopter from the Chilean Research Base arrives. While the visit was routine (Arctowski Station is the central repair center for the area), it didn't take much imagination to picture the Chileans arriving while the men were onboard our ship in order to take over the Polish base and capture the women.

Chile invades Poland!:


After the scientists departed, we headed out of the sound and proceed out to our next destination the next morning - Gerlache Strait and Neumeyer Channel. Throughout the evening, as we ate dinner on our way, the mountains and water were cast in a bright, clear light. I now understand what people truly mean by "ice blue" - it's the clearest, coldest blue imaginable in the sky with the mountains of snow and ice beneath. Photos aren't nearly enough to describe the feeling the play of light and color evoked.

The next day arrived clear and beautiful again as we sailed along the Gerlache Strait toward Neumeyer Channel. On one side was a huge island, the other was the Antarctic Peninsula, so close that you felt as if you could touch it. Figuratively, I did reach out so my finger seemed to reach it, and while we never made a technical landing, I feel I was truly in Antarctica.

The weather we're having is some of the best our naturalist, Dr. Bernard Stonehouse, has seen in Antarctica. Not just a day, but a string of days of calm, clear weather blessed us.

This day we will go to the farthest point south on our cruise - just shy of 65 degrees south (the Antarctic Circle is at 70 degrees south).

Morning in Gerlache Channel:


Magnificent vistas and scenes were everywhere:

The seas were so calm (officially "smooth with wavelets") the only wves were caused by our wake:


We were entertained not just by the beauty of the day and the scenery, but also visited by Minke, Humpback and Orca whales (we'd seen Minkes and Humbpacks previously, but this was our only visit by Orcas) and of course our favorite penguins cavorted on the ice for our amusement.

Gentoo Penguins on a "Penguin Berg":


As we approached Neumeyer Channel, the ice increased. Our Ice Pilot (also known as the Ice Captain) was magnificent, charting our course through the ice safely. He guided the ship expertly through, maneuvering with fine adjustments so we were always safe. His skill was impressive and we all felt safe in his hands.

These are examples of the ice as we reached the southern end of Gerlache Strait:

Then we turned north to sail back through Neumeyer Channel and the amazing vistas of these mountains:


We weren't alone here - the small expedition ship Corinthian II joined us:


All afternoon and evening we sailed north along the Antarctic Peninsula, finally leaving the tip at about 11:00PM, still light as sunset wasn't until after midnight (and it truly never got dark overnight), and sailed toward Deception Island.

Dawn this morning crept in, masked by fog and low clouds as we approached Deception Island, an island cloaked not just by glaciers, but also in the ash from its active volcano. The island in truth is
one huge caldera with a lagoon in the center. If you have visited Santorini, just picture that island transported to Antarctica, covered in ice and ash, and you have Deception Island.

The islad is home to an enormous colony (upwards of 100,000) of Chinstrap Penguins. Once again, my morning was spent enjoying "breakfast" with my new friends, Pen and Penny Guin (sorry, couldn't resist). As they came to and fro from the colony, they thrilled us with their antics around the ship. You could see dozens jumping all around.

At one point, a group of the penguins seemed to make a game of keeping up with the ship. Dr. Stonehouse (who provided running commentary whenever we were viewing new places to increase our understanding of what we were seeing) informed us we were moving along at 5.5 knots, and the penguins had no trouble keeping up. Was just pure fun to watch these fast "Chinnies"!


Two other ships joined us - Le Diamant and Polish sailing ship Europa.


While the weather today was not as stunningly beautiful as what we'd experienced the previous two days, it in no way diminished the amazement of all we saw.

This is the entrance to the caldera. Smaller expedition ships can go through the entrance, but because of a shipwreck, large ships like the Star Princess cannot. If you've ever seen pictures of visitors to Antarctica cavorting in the water, this is where they do it. There are places in the caldera where the water is warmed by the volcano underneath, making it possible to go "swimming" in Antarctica.


We finally left Deception Island around noon, heading north across the Drake Channel toward Cape Horn. At first the seas were flat calm and foggy - we had Drake "Lake"! As evening progressed, the seas got a bit more rolling, but never classified as more than "moderate." After so many long days of adventure, spending hours upon hours outside in awe, the gentle rolling all night (and no early
events to worry about) made for a very nice night's sleep.

We passed 60 degrees south around midnight, signaling our official departure from Antarctica.

Arrival at Cape Horn should be around 5PM tonight. Hopefully the skies will lift enough so we will be able to see the famous albatross sculpture which is dedicated to the souls of the sailors lost in these treacherous waters, in honor of their wandering souls, just like the albatross.

Have to say I've been extremely impressed with the videographers on this sailing. Typically, I view the cruise video as an "I was there" video, filled primarily with waving faces of the passengers so they can show their friends back home they were actually on the ship, and then complimented with a few port pictures, often with stock footage. Not so on this sailing. The two videographers have
wonderfully captured the beauty we've seen in port so far in the Falkland Islands, but also as we've sailed along. There is footage of the whales, penguins, and stunning lengths of the scenery we've
seen, magnificently capturing the light and essence of our adventure. Further kudos go to them for the innovative step of allowing the finalized DVD to be seen in its entirety, including the waving faces of the passengers intermixed with the scenery, or to view the scenes themselves, separated, without the passengers. Marvelous! That fills the preferences of everyone! I've ordered three - one for me, one as a gift, and one which will be available for those of you who might want to see it as
you contemplate a future visit to Antarctica.

Tomorrow we touch land again for the first time in a week, sailing into and docking in Ushuaia, Argentina. It promises to be another day of wonderful critters as I plan to sail around Beagle Channel on a catamaran, then enjoy king crab (a local specialty) for lunch, followed by their signature hot chocolate. I may not be able to post tomorrow, or the following day when we're in Punta Arenas, Chile, but will try to do at least a quick post without pictures, and bring you all the highlights with pictures no later than the 22nd. Keep watching!

By the way, I've been having difficulty with my email. If you've written me, about anything, and have not received an answer, please write again. It appears some of my mail has been eaten by the
ions. You might also want to cc me at amber@amberwavestravel.com (that's the address for my dive travel division) in addition to my amber@cruiseresource.com address. That seems to be getting through better.

Thank you all for reading!